“I had been reminiscing about a small, hands-on entity where I could do it all myself again, like I did in the beginning.” Mitch Cosentino

Hands-on winemakers making small amounts of lovingly-crafted premium wine can be found all over the world.  Some stay small while others grow into big wineries while retaining a personal touch.  Mitch Cosentino has come full-circle. He started making his own wine in 1980 in Modesto; he then grew a 30,000+ case winery in Yountville/Oakville, bringing substantial attention to that part of Napa Valley at that time. Cosentino Winery is now owned by Vintage Wine Estates and Mitch is back to making small lots of “winemaker’s wine.”

I really like Mitch’s new PureCru wines.  They are well-priced, well-made and I have succumbed to the cool factor of his label.  I would bring this wine as a gift or to a party in a heartbeat.

PureCru wines are very approachable and food friendly with enough interest to hold the attention of connoisseurs.  The 2010 Giovanni Vineyards Pinot Noir ($32) is from Carneros.  I am pleased that it doesn’t have under-ripe green bell-pepper or cow-patty flavors that often plague Carneros wines. (I always say wine from Carneros is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you’re going to get. Nod to Forrest Gump.)  I highly recommend PureCru’s Pinot Noir and everyone knows I’m a (picky) Pinot lover.

I also recommend PureCoz Red Blend 2007 ($65).  Cosentino’s famous for his red blends and this one does not disappoint.  Aged 36 months in French Oak, PureCoz is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese. I can not say it better than what Mitch wrote on the label, designed for the fine cuisine of the world.  It’s a beautiful wine and a real conversation starter.

For white wine lovers, I recommend the 2009 Purety blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion ($25).  Intriguing and pleasant (with no malolactic fermentation).

Since they are made in such small qualities, this is the Wine Club you want to join. For a pittance compared to other Napa wine clubs, you get well-priced premium fruit made in small lots by a famous winemaker.

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Photo Courtesy of Bonterra

Bonterra loosely translates from Italian as good earth.  Bonterra Winery’s good earth seems to bring out the best in their grapes.  I can not remember a time when I was more pleasantly surprised by a group of wines.  Added bonus…they are $13.99 for whites and $15.99 for reds, have a lovely fresh label and are widely available in the states and overseas.

I first opened the 2009 Chardonnay and thought, wow, this is lovely.  I like to keep Chardonnay in my fridge for a week to enjoy a small glass with Hubby in the evening after work.  I’ve experienced other organic wines turn ugly quickly even though I always use a VacuVin, but the slight changes that occurred with Bonterra’s wine were not unpleasant in the least. I am very picky about Chardonnay and I really love this wine. It has all of the elements of a thoughtfully-made, restrained Chardonnay: 70% of the fruit went through malolactic fermentation in French and American oak. It was then blended with 30% fruit from stainless steel tanks and finished off in neutral oak. For me, that is a winning combination; the malo cuts out the bitter acidity that I find nasty in “naked” Chardonnays and grapes from the the stainless steel tanks keep the wine from being overwhelmed by oak flavors.

I was also thoroughly surprised by the delightful 2008 Merlot.  Blended with a bit of Syrah, Zinfandel, and Carignane, it’s a very special wine in that the grapes were subjected to a rare 50-year frost with a long growing season which resulted in (low-yield) concentrated fruits. Events like this showcase a winemaker’s ability and palate. Winemaker Robert Blue turned a potential disaster into a must-try Merlot.

The winemaker’s handling of Bonterra’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is just my style. It’s a food friendly, flexible Cabernet Sauvignon.  Folks who don’t want a tannic big red wine, this is your Cabernet Sauvignon. It has plenty of structure and flavor but I found that it pairs nicely with basic Mediterranean or Italian food. I would even recommend a high-quality pizza and salad with blue cheese. A non-stuffy Cabernet Sauvignon – nice!

Bottomline: The fact that the winemaker is making fabulous wines from organic farming is interesting to me as an oenophile and it’s fun to show others what organic wines can be, but you don’t have to be “into organic” wines to enjoy these refreshing, flavorful and delicious food friendly wines.  

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Because I love tasting wines from around the world, I have purchased many  Chilean wines (as well as received samples).  My big news is that I am blown away by how much the quality of Chile’s red wines has risen just in the last year. The first time (2009) I sat through a Carmenére tasting, I ended up recommending a Sauvignon Blanc to my readers. Even though I’m a huge fan of Chilean whites* and Pinot Noirs, I was less than enthusastic about Chile’s effort to promote Carmenére as their signature grape.

Don’t get me wrong, Carmenére is no backwoods weird varietal; it enjoys a fine pedigree. Here’s a fun fact from Wine.com: Carmenère is yet another grape that was eventually exiled from the Bordeaux blend. In the late 1800′s, Carmenère was brought over to Chile from France, and it never turned back. For a while, Chilean growers thought this grape was Merlot and labeled their wines as such. But in the early nineties, thanks to DNA testing, vineyards were revisited and the grapes correctly labeled, and Carmenère was discovered to be the backbone of many Chilean wines. 

Without further commentary, I’m happy to recommend the following Chilean Carmenéres. Happy shopping!

• Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia, Carmenère  2009 ($10)
• Natura, Carmenère 2010 (Made by Emiliana) ($10) This wine is organic, I’ll be writing a post about organic wines soon.
• Paso Grande Valle Control, Carmenère 2010 ($10)
• Montes Alpha Colchagua Valley Carmenère 2008 ($15)  Montes Alpha makes consistently good value wine.
• Margues de Casa Concha Carmenère 2009  ($16) Made by Concha y Toro, another big name and easy to find.
• Carmen Gran Reserva, Apalta Carmenère 2009 ($17)
• Novas Limited Selection Carmenère / Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) This is what I call a Saturday night wine – complex, smooth, drinkable now. Very nice wine.

Most of these wines are widely distributed thus easy to find. I hope you enjoy them.

*Chilean White Wine post coming soon~ I’m tasting a bunch of Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs this month.

Picture taken in Chile on the Wine Writer’s Trip sponsored by Winebow. I’m in the hat and that’s the famous Karen MacNeil who wrote The Wine Bible next to me.

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Mourvédre* and its cousins are a hot commodity in the USA right now.  Mourvédre is one of  22 grapes known as Rhone Varieties.  Fortunately you don’t have to go to France to taste these interesting wines.   American-made wines are featured at tastings sponsored by the Rhone Rangers each year.  The 2012 San Francisco Celebration of Rhone Wines featured 500 wines from 100 wineries mostly from California (lots of Paso Robles wineries).

The three most common white Rhone grapes grown in California are Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.  Marsanne and Roussanne are often blended together.  One of my favorite blends is Viognier with Chardonnay.  Popular Rhone reds are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvédre.

These grapes are naturally bold and flavorful. Like Petite Sirah, they are very distinct; for instance, if you taste rich honeysuckle nectar, it is most likely a Viognier.  Syrah is frequently paired with BBQ, rich sauces and meat while a lesser wine would be over-powered.  While an occasional full-bodied Syrah will find it’s way to my table, my favorite California Rhone wines are restrained the fruit ripeness is controlled and enough acidity is present to create a balanced wine that doesn’t leave my teeth purple or my tongue honey-coated.

Here are producers that I recommend:

Two Shepherds.  Winemaker William Allen is an on-the-move tech executive, a committed wine blogger, a marketing evangelist for Sonoma wine events and a darn good winemaker. His first bottling was in 2010 and he is quickly ramping up to deliver 2011 to meet demand. Tip: Get on his mailing list.

Inspiration Vineyards & Winery.  Jon Phillips’ wines are food friendly and terroir-driven. He makes a small amount of Chardonnay-Viognier (190 cases), bright, elegant Viogniers, a very French White Rhone Blend and several other varietals mostly from the Russian River/Dry Creek area. Tip: The tasting room is open Thursday – Monday, no appointment necessary and if it’s not during harvest, you’ll probably meet the winemaker.

Cline Cellars.  Drinking wine out of the barrel with Charlie Tsegeletos was a seminal moment in my wine loving journey. His enthusiasm for winemaking and wine education remains unbridled even after 30+ years. His 2010 Old Vine Mourvédre is a steal at $20 and his Mourvédre Rose is always a winner. Tip: Join the Pendulum Club, (the only club I belong to) the people are wonderful, the deals are great and the winery is a lovely home-away-from-home.

Hope Family Wines. Founder Austin Hope and winemaker Jason “JC” Diefenderfer make some great Rhone wines in Paso Robles. A larger winery with five very well-priced labels (Troublemaker, Treana, Liberty School, Candor and Austin Hope) has something for everyone. I especially like Troublemaker Blend 3, a red Rhone blend made from multiple vintages ($20).  Tip: Read more about Troublemaker online.

*It was about 10 years ago when I first heard the fun folks at Cline Cellars teaching people how to remember Mourvédre (here’s how to really pronounce it).

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I enjoy wine from all over the globe, but many German wines that I receive* are too sweet for my palate.  I’m always excited to get a Silvaner because the best ones are dry (the opposite of sweet) and pair perfectly with Springtime seafood and salads.  I served this 2009 Graf v (von) Schönborn with fresh white shrimp, cilantro, garden limes, chopped red onions and a little salt and pepper over broccoli/carrot slaw. The wine is light in body, low-alcohol (12%) with stone fruit and a bit of lime. Absolutely lovely and easy drinking.

When I visited Germany, I advocated to wineries that reaching more American wine lovers requires making their labels more user-friendly.  This producer gets it.  Here’s what the wine label would look like if the usual German “rules” were followed.

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MacPhail Family Vineyards

Specializing in single vineyard small lots, MacPhail’s delightful wines are flawless expressions of terroir-driven Pinot Noir.  It’s also a cool place to visit and hang out with the winemaker.

My first visit to MacPhail’s cool little barn/tasting room, I didn’t get to taste because I was hosting a couple from out of town.  My guests joined another couple in the four-seat tasting bar with James, the winemaker, pouring. Wandering around the work space, I took in family bicycles parked side-by-side, wine-making apparatus neatly organized in the compact room and a slew of framed articles tucked away on a stairwell.  With time to kill, I began reading the articles.

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MILESI don’t know. It’s the heartbreak grape. Difficult to vinify. For me, it’s a metaphor for the process of art. You struggle and suffer against seemingly insuperable microclimatic odds, and only when everything comes into a … perfect confluence can you really alchemize something transcendent. And it doesn’t happen often. But, forsaking money, and with no apparent concern for one’s well-being, like artists, true artists, Pinot vintners persevere for that one preternatural moment. Which, when imbibed, is then only but a memory, nothing really tangible, like a book, or a painting, or a movie, admittedly. But … unsurpassable in all other sensory delights in that one sublime, albeit ephemeral, moment. From Rex Pickett’s new play, Sideways.

I wrote a press release about Rex Pickett’s involvement with the 10th Annual Pinot Noir Summit. During our interview via Skype, we chatted like old friends for so long that we found ourselves adjusting our screens in our offices because the sun had went down.  When we finally hung up, we had decided that I would interview him onstage at the Pinot Summit event. We also agreed that it would be fun to do the same thing (new topics) at the Wine Blogger’s Conference in Willamette Oregon later in the year. Rex’s book, Vertical, highlights a road trip to a Pinot Noir festival in Willamette Valley.

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Winter Winelands, Sonoma

As part of my wine education, a few years ago, I spent 2 1/2 years visiting wineries, year-round, four days a week.  I loved talking to wine makers, owners and staff during the winter season.  During that time, and the 5 years before that, when I wasn’t studying, I was home (practicing pairing) so I rarely went to public wine events.

This year, Winter Winelands in Northern Sonoma County caught my attention. It’s one of my favorite wine regions, and although 6,000 people attend annually, the event is spread out over 30 miles including Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley, Healdsburg, Dry Creek Valley and even some tasting rooms in Santa Rosa. The possible combinations of itineraries is almost endless.

I’ve decided to visit some old favorites in Dry Creek Valley. I’ll miss a few folks over in the Russian River (like John Tyler) but I’m sure I’ll be inspired to come back another weekend to say hello.  My friend Herlinda and I will be in my little roadster starting at Bella Wine Vineyards & Wine Caves. It’s beautiful inside the caves with tasting stations throughout, the perfect escape when it’s chilly outside and the vineyards are bare and boring.  Warmed up, we’ll be ready to hit the red carpet at Dry Creek Vineyard where there are always good deals and a variety of wines to taste. (I’ll be looking for a new vintage of their dessert wine Soleil.)

Then off to a rare public opening of a secret winery that is usually appointment only. Note: Not on the Winelands list but tastings are complimentary for Wine Road participants. Only open Saturday, not Sunday.  From there, a drive up to Michel Schlumberger to see friends, it’s always a great place for a party (inside scoop that they will have some fabulous deals, the more you buy, the more you save).  Might end our day here but I’d love to stop by Merriam Vineyards to taste through their outstanding wines. Merriam’s also serving braised pork and grits. Yum!

Make your itinerary at Winter Wineland, The Wine Road.

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My favorite New Year’s celebrations? Doing the unexpected with great friends. This year I had two evenings of bubbly tastings.  We tasted the newest trends in the global wine market, Rosé of Malbec and Torrontes/Chardonnay from Argentina, Moscato from California, Moscato and Prosecco from Italy and even a Yellowtail from Australia.

It’s an easy and fun party. Just ask your friends to bring a bottle from whatever country they want, the imports are well under $20 and the quality is just fine.  And, if you don’t like it straight, make sparkling cocktails or save it for the morning-after Mimosa or Bellini.  A bartender that attended made us a classic cocktail with sparkling wine, sugar and bitters. Serve finger food and don’t worry about perfect pairings.

The winner was Reginato Sparkling Torrontes Chardonnay.  It’s 80% Chardonnay, 20% Torrontes. The sweetness of the Torrontes really comes through.($17)  They also make a pretty Rosé of Malbec.

Terramia Moscato was the runner up, pear-baked, vanilla custard, dark cherries and grapefruit.  No flaws with a long dry finish.

One of my favorite Prosecco’s Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco (Folio Wine Partners, $12.99) is a great choice.

Allure Moscato won the prize for the prettiest bottle. It tastes like Maraschino cherries & grapefruit. Allure Pink Moscato is popular among the younger crowds.

New Year’s is a great time to just have fun and do something new.  Enjoy!

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I hosted a small pre-Thanksgiving dinner for six close friends.  Taking my own advice, my mission was to serve four different, easy-to-find, under $20 wines that play well with turkey, roasted vegetables, yams with apples, traditional stuffing, chorizo corn bread stuffing, and cranberry/bing cherry sauce.

2009 DeLoach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir  A strikingly nice balance of bold fruit and acidity, this wine has substance, and flavors that are distinct and memorable without overwhelming the food.  It’s popular with people who like a stylish Pinot Noir with medium to full body. ($19.99 Safeway)

2010 Cline Cellars Cashmere A long time favorite to share with others, Cashmere is a blend of Mourvédre, Syrah and Grenache.  It’s body is lighter than the DeLoach but the fruit is still quite distinct. It’s a fun, easy wine to introduce to people interested in discovery and the fact that Cline gives a percentage of sales of every bottle to breast cancer research is a bonus. ($15.99 Paradise Foods. Cline is widely distributed at grocery stores and wine shops.)

2009 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir The lightest of the red wines in the group, it is a well-made nice representative of California’s southern coast.  Light and fruity, it’s the perfect red alternative for white wine lovers. ($19.99 Safeway)

Rare White, Lot 297 Napa County White Table Wine.  Ok, this one is not easy to find, it’s made by a negociant who buys leftover grapes or already blended wines from quality producers, puts a new label on it and sells it for a much lower price.  I chose this one because the blend is lovely for Thanksgiving: Chardonnay (76.32), Semillion (5.26), Marsanne (7.89) & Viogner (10.53). One of my friends is a big fan of Chardonnay, and she loved this wine. If you can find it super, otherwise, look for other interesting whites. ($7.99 Paradise Foods)

Lastly, another friend brought our group a 2006 Kunde Sonoma Valley Zinfandel.  It was a wonderful choice because unlike many Zinfandels that pop in your mouth with unbalanced acidity and fruit, it was well-rounded with soft tannins and properly restrained fruit.  The back label reads, “…experts say it’s varietally correct.” I agree. (Around $16 and it heads the line up as the wine with the most body.)

Now, you’re ready to run to the store at the last minute! Happy Sipping!

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