
Nieto Senetiner Vertical Tasting: 8 Vintages / 10 Writers
In April 2011, I was one of ten people invited to Argentina’s very first vertical tasting of aged Bonarda.* It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and writing about it makes me giddy all over again. Even though being the first and getting the scoop so-to-speak that aged Bonarda is excellent, the story that I want to share goes much deeper.
There is no ambivalence about the chosen market position among top Argentina producers: they intend to deliver world-class wines. They are dedicated to competing against the best of any country and region. The wine is strictly Argentinean with Argentinean soil, sunlight, history, wine making practices and taste profiles. Since 1991, when Argentina began allowing imports and exports, certain winemakers set their sights on the international marketplace. They invested in quality people, facilities and began scientific experiments to root out the best combination of soil, rootstock, growing conditions, wine making and delivery to market systems. Twenty years seems to be the magic number for these producers for the fruit of their labors has paid off.
One of these top producers, Nieto Senetiner, while delivering many exceptional wines (more posts coming), is a premiere producer of Bonarda. Vitaculture practices are precise…high altitude (3,100′), cool climate, drop fruit for low-yields and no cover crop to let the sun reflect back onto the grapes. Then, the real news, they age the wine.
The Nieto Senetiner Bonarda vertical tasting included wines from 2000, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008. My favorites? 2000, 2002 and 2003; this was the line where the wine had moved into a super-luscious category. The hue and nose were beautiful and flawless. 2004 was distinct but similar to the 2003 and the 2005 held delightful promise. In my opinion, the 2006, 2007 and 2008 need to lay down. After the tasting, I took the 2000 and the 2002 to my table to taste with lunch. Unfortunately, the 2000 died right there at the table (confirmed by my friend, preeminent wine educator, Karen MacNeil). This is part of the whole aging experiment that I find so fascinating. Jeff Mausbach, an American ex-pat and Argentina specialist said that he felt the 2004 and 2005 show strength not shown in the original 2000, so we still don’t know if 10 years is the limit for Bonarda. Parenthetically, after lunch the 2002 was still drinking well.
Current vintages are available for under $30 (750 ml). You don’t have to be a collector to enjoy this experiment but you should have a wine refrigerator. Depending on how much room you have, buy 6+ bottles, open one in the near future to see what it tastes like, then open them periodically over a decade. You can do this with fewer bottles but you take the risk of a bad bottle, so it’s always a good idea to hold back 2 bottles for each year that you want to try an aged wine. Continue to buy a new vintage every year and soon you’ll have a rare and large collection of aged Bonarda. Look for older vintages at Winesearcher.com. To find a store near you that carries Nieto Senetiner wines, search at Winebow.
Note to trade, somms & journalists: The folks at Nieto Senetiner are considering taking this tasting on the road, so stay tuned.
* Bonarda wines can be lighter-bodied and fruity, full of cherry and plum flavours, with light tannins and moderate acidity. However with concentrated fruit from older vines, and especially when oak aged, Bonardas can also be big, fruity, dense and tannic wines with deep colour and fig and raisin characteristics. In most Argentine vineyards, Bonarda is one of the last grapes to be harvested. (Argentina Wine Guide)

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