International Wine Regions

Carmenere Grape Maipo Valley, Chile, South America

Carmenere, Maipo Valley, Chile, April 2011

Chile is a fascinating sliver of land. I first paid attention to Chile when a friend introduced me to Isabelle Allende and her husband years ago.  The famous Chilean writer of the House of the Spirits and other novels, was reportedly influenced by Pablo Neruda, Chile’s Nobel Prize winning poet.  Neruda died many years ago, but I visited one of his fascinating homes in Santiago.

The land of Chile is doubly fascinating when you discover it’s diverse wine regions.  Grapes are grown at the high altitude sunny slopes of the Andes, next to the cool hills of the Pacific Ocean and on the edges of the waterless desert. In terms of  public awareness, Carmenere is to Chile as Cabernet is to Napa.  But in fact, Chiles’ many microclimates support ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Chile’s most popular exported variety is Cabernet Sauvignon.  It’s easy to find in the USA and has an excellent value to quality ratio.  TerraNoble makes a Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva ($18.99) that is food friendly. The 2008 was shy and pretty on the nose unlike big Cabernets that leap out of the glass like ghosts of dead grapes. The TerraNoble winemaking team aims for fresh, modern, elegant wines with fruit flavors that highlight each variety.  The Gran Reserva achieves it. There are many winemaking styles in Chile, so my recommendation (as always) is to purchase some and try it.

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Andes Mountains, Argentina

View from Catena Zapata

Catena Zapata WIne Glass

Sunset in Argentina

Catena Zapata StaircaseCatena Zapata at Night

A few pics taken with my Nikon D50, 18mm – 200 Nikon VR lens.  This is Nicolás Catena’s winery.  He was the 2009 Decanter Magazine’s man of the year.

Nicolas Catena April 5, 2011

Nicolás Catena is the Robert Mondavi of Argentina.  His story is well-known so I won’t repeat it in full.  In summary, he took it upon himself to significantly upgrade Argentina’s wine making and market position after following his father’s footsteps in the viticulture business. Catena is the pioneer of high altitude grape growing and modern Malbec.  Listening to him talk while tasting a 1995 Malbec and 1997 Chardonnay was a highlight of the Winebow Media Tour to Argentina.

Because of Nicolas Catena and a handful of other producers, Argentine wine (Malbec and other grapes) is in a similar place in history to California in 1976 when California wine bowled the world over at the infamous Paris tasting.  The quality is that good.

Look for more articles here over the next  few weeks as I reveal the secrets and breaking news about Argentina’s current position in the worldwide wine market. I’ll also tell you which wines to buy, drink and hold.

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Argentina!

Laura Cantena, Argentina Wine

Laura Catena & Girl with a Glass Talk Wine Writing

Argentinean wine is a winner for casual drinkers, enthusiasts and experts.  It’s not difficult to find low-priced, excellent wines; it pairs well with meat and home-cooked traditional American food as well as other ethnic dishes; and when you seek out top-notch Argentine wine, it is inarguably world-class.

I started buying Argentine wine in 2002, during my 5-year course in wine and food pairing. Like many enthusiasts, I knew that  it was well-priced and that if I was going to buy Malbec, make sure it was Argentinean.  Looking back at my notes as a budding oenophile I wrote…competes with a cab, smooth long finish; rich, full, balanced; dry like a cab with flavor but not too fruity; just right, buy more.  The prices ranged from $5.99 (Bevmo 5-cent sale) to $38 for a bottle of Salentein Malbec (ordered at Boca, an Argentinean Steakhouse in my neighborhood).  Most Argentine bottles in my database are between $11 – $15.

If you are new to Argentine wine, my recommendation is to pick up a few bottles of Malbec.  If you’re looking for budget wine, get an inexpensive one and pick up a Reserve too.  The Reserve will introduce you to the winery’s idea of a slightly “better” wine–your palate is the ultimate decider of course.

If you are an enthusiast, Laura Catena authored a must-read book, Vino Argentino, An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina.  Belonging to the fourth-generation of an Argentinian-Italian winemaking family, Laura is a San Francisco emergency room doctor, a mother of three, and owner of her own wine brand, Luca. Her father is Nicolás Catena, a pioneer of modern winemaking in his country and owner of the acclaimed Bodega Catena Zapata label.

I love this book because it captures exactly the same information that I like to share about Sonoma/Napa–it’s truly an insider’s guide. Here’s a blurb about the book from the publisher, Chronicle Books:

Vino Argentino is an insider’s travelogue to the Argentine wine country. It is part viticultural primer, part cultural exploration, part introduction to the Argentine lifestyle. It is about the ascent of the mighty Malbec grape into the stratosphere of world-class wines. It is about single-lane roads lined with vineyards and patches of brush set against a breathtaking backdrop of snow-capped Andes peaks. It is about schoolchildren in white uniforms holding hands on dirt sidewalks, and gardens overflowing with flowers and fruit. In this book, I will take you exploring through the countryside of my childhood, so that you come to know its towns, vineyards, restaurants, and inns as intimately as I do.

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When I was in Germany, we were treated to nightly food and wine pairing dinners. They ranged from elegant to homespun…all delightful.  At 8:30pm after an 11 hour flight, I began my immersion into genuine German food & wine.

Here’s the menu (and interpretations) just like I experienced it. Don’t glaze over all the German words like I once did, here’s an opportunity to learn so you can enjoy the truly fabulous wine of Germany.

Aperitif

  • 2009er Durbacher Plauerlrain Klingelberger (Riesling) Kabinett trocken

*Definition: the year is treated like a verb in German wine, therefore it is a ’2009′er. Durbacher is the name of the wine region/village. Plauerlrain is the name of the winery and Klingelberger is the local name for Riesling. A Kabinett is a lighter style of German white wine. Trocken means dry in style.

1st Course

  • Chervil cream soup with pike balls
  • 2009er Durbacher KochbergGrauer Burgunder dry
  • 2009er Durbacher Steinberg Weiber Burgunder late vintage dry

*Chervil is an herb with a slight licorice flavor, also called gourmet’s parsley. It’s great in light dishes like soup. Pike balls are made of white fish. Now you already know that Durbacher is the region and Kochberg is the winery.  Grauer Burgunder is the German equivalent of Pinot Gris (France) or Pinot Grigio (Italy).  Although it says “dry”, they could have written Trocken. The second wine, Weiber Burgunder is the same as France’s Pinot Blanc. Late vintage dry means it was harvested late and made in the dry style (fermented so the sugar level is low). The German term is Spätlese.

2nd Course

  • Pork Medallions roasted with sage & Parma ham, vegetable from the market & thin noodles
  • 2008er Durbacher International Pinot Noir QbA dry
  • 2006er Durbacher Stienberg Red Wine Dry – matured in Barrique barrels (Cabernet Sauvignon x Merlot x Lemberger x Pinot Noir)

*The typical German meal that I experienced consisted of meat and noodles. The first wine served with this course represents the region/village wine.  QbA designates a “fine wine from a certain place.”  The second wine is a blend of grapes made in French oak barrels. Lemberger is a German grape that is hated by certain connoisseurs and appreciated by others…see my post about the Grand Tasting.

Dessert Course

  • Strawberry buttermilk terrine with mango-passion fruit sorbet & fresh berries
  • 2008er  Durbacher Kochberg Spatburgunder Weissherbst Auslese
  • 2008er Durbacher Plauelrain Scheurebe Beerenauslese

*The first wine is a rosé (Weissherbst or Weiberherbst) of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder).  Auslese means selected harvest. The last wine was very unique to Germany: Scheurebe is a grape and Beerenauslese is a style (very sweet, late harvest), the link goes to a wonderful pyramid from Wines of Germany (my hosts) that shows sweetness levels of German wines.

Thanks to my writer buddies who interpreted everything for me as we drank and ate. Quote of the evening regarding the last wine, that wine is tooth throttling sweet!

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Visiting Paris


Paris 2010

Reflections, lessons learned and tips for other travelers.

  • I experienced French people as very warm and helpful and I believe it was due to one tip I received before I left. Greeting everyone with a hearty (never a wimpy) Bon jour! Hello! is culturally correct and signals to continue in English. Upon leaving, say au revoir! I watched French people’s faces tighten when Americans came up to them and did not greet them properly before asking for whatever they wanted. In France, not greeting people first is discourteous.
  • I traveled with a Nook ereader and read Eiffel’s Tower, (Jill Jonnes). A page-turner centered on the  brilliant & wealthy engineer Gustave Eiffel working to complete his tower in time for the 1889 World’s Fair.  Jonnes’ book was the perfect tour guide, filling my head with a rich tapestry of characters including Gauguin, van Gogh, Whistler, Buffalo Bill & Annie Oakley, Thomas Edison, journalists, dandies and politicians.  As I walked through museums and explored the androissments (neighborhoods) of Paris, I experienced a feeling of living history because of this wonderful book.
  • Trying to describe Paris in a few words, someone said to me, there’s nothing that compares to Paris. I agree. First, it is really big, with a population of almost 12 million people. (San Francisco has less than 1 million people.) It’s the number 1 tourist spot in the world; I’ve never seen so many monuments, concourses, parks, old buildings, statues and museums all in one place. The Seine, canals, boats and bridges create a moving picture that gives the city a special energy and life force.
  • Seven days  was perfect for my introductory trip. I took an easy and comfortable morning high-speed train from Frankfurt, Germany and by noon I was enjoying a lentil salad and glass of rosé in Paris.  Every day I walked towards a museum or monument, exploring as I went. If you ask me if I saw such-n-such, the answer is yes.
  • It’s easy to travel alone in Paris, but it’s lonely. Unfortunately, my hubby can’t walk well and Paris is a walking city. Seeing the kissing couples along the Seine bummed me out. On the other hand, I made sure my hotel had high-speed wireless and we video-chatted every day.
  • I’m glad that my first trip  to Paris was in late August. The city is much quieter and therefore less overwhelming.  My luxury boutique hotel was behind the National Assembly and the politicians were on summer break. I can only imagine what that neighborhood is like when they are in session. On the other hand, the bistro nearby was excellent in service and quality and the gendarmes (police) were everywhere making me feel very safe. (I highly recommend my hotel and neighborhood.)
  • My two favorite memories of Paris are the people and the food. Before I arrived, I envisioned myself spending afternoons lazily sitting in cafes sipping cappuccino. It was even more fun than I imagined.  I enjoyed delectable pastries and every brasserie, casual bistro, high-end restaurant and deli served delicious food. I never felt awkward dining alone and was treated like a queen. Upon arrival at my one splurge lunch, the host greeted me, Bon jour Mademoiselle, we’ve been waiting for you!

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Tasting Notes

Erste Lage Tasting, Germany 2010

To enjoy wine, the story begins and ends with each individual’s palate. So why do we endlessly analyze, score, judge and discuss the merits of individual wines and varietals?  For me, wine challenges my intelligence, involves all of my senses and creates a never-ending conversation.

My initial relationship with wine was simple–I liked it or not. But then, the wonder of wine crept up on me: I found myself on a ladder of discovery.  I moved from liking it to wanting to try more so I went wine tasting in search of wine to love. Then I learned about the million details that impact how grapes become wine. I met winemakers and liked their stories, so I added intangible meaning to the mix. I soon was faced with a hobby that has so many intricacies that it takes a life time to master.

Amid discovering and learning,  I still know what I like and what I don’t. I go through 3 phases with a wine:

  • how does it smell & taste upon first sip?
  • how does it taste after it sits in the glass or decanter?
  • how does it taste with food?

When I’m doing what I call a quick and dirty evaluation of wine, I score on a scale of 0-5.  I get an initial impression by smelling and leaving the wine on my palate for a minute or so then spitting.  A 3 means it has potential and I’m curious about the wine maker or terroir.  4 means the wine fairs the best in the group, and it either needs a bit more time or better tasting (pairing) conditions.  A 5 means I’ll buy it on the spot if possible.

If you think wine is complicated, it is. But it’s not complicated to know what you like. Just keep tasting~ sometimes you have to taste a lot of wines, before finding the ones you love.

Just for fun, here’s some tasting notes from a tasting of 329 wines in Germany. (The + – and / symbols mean good, bad or neutral on the nose.)

These are notes for German Pinot Blanc.

nose +, straight from the barrel, wine is not ready yet, it’s not bottle shock. 0

nose+, neutral, boring 2

nose/best but doesn’t rock my world; more like what I wld expect 4

These are notes for Pinot Noir.

boring, waterly, 1

nose + cherries; balanced, light Pinot like Oregon;  3

long lasting finish, full bodied; I’m home . 4

too light; after taste too acidic. 2; The One changed this wine A LOT – made it much more interesting; toned down the after taste & let the fruit out; black cherries were not present before. 4  (I was testing Andrea Robinson’s The One glass)

These are notes on some German wines you’ve probably never heard of… FRÜHBURGUNDER AHR GROSSES GEWÄCHS 2008

strong fresh tobacco smell; hard cherry candy; could be intg with food or really bad. Complex though which turns me on.

nose is cherry/sonoma coast PN; perfectly acceptable–getting closer to Cal PN. 3

LEMBERGER WÜRTTEMBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS 2008

smells like Chinese food but calmed down quite nicely.big Christmas spice ; cloves–quite an interesting wine. Brand new varietal to me. The One rounded it out made everything much more subtle; harder to pick out the flavors but more true to what the consumer will taste if you serve this wine now. 4 for curiosity.

a light pee smell; then complex; wine lacks character (now that’s what tired tasters write!) much gentler then the first one–but pretty cool. 4

Ludens cough drop smell; nasty candy.

needs to sit/age; sort of like a syrah. 3

nice everyday wine–better than Zinfandel; not complex but layered. 3

tight but the biggest wine I’ve tasted in Germany. Full bodied–I give it points just for being there for me. 3 (Note: Germans like to make really acidic wines so they will age, after tastings hundreds of highly acidic wines, I was craving bold smooth fruit.)

Photo from my new friend who was on the Wines of Germany Media Tour with me, Mariusz Kapczynski, www.vinsifera.pl

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Traveling with 14 other wine writers from all over the world was a hoot.  They came from Sweden, Denmark, Canada, Korea, the Netherlands, Finland, Poland and the UK.  The oldest was 70 and the youngest in his 20′s.  It was an easy-going group, everyone got along well.

Here’s some out-of-context quotes that I found amusing:

He’s completely mad, he must have lots of cots with babies. (British writer talking about someone  and referencing a doll in a cradle that one of our hotel’s showcased on a stair landing.)

Question: What’s your favorite wine? Answer: The next one.

If they were not like that, they wouldn’t fill out their dresses, so they must hire those big German girls.

The new face of German food. (My new friend commenting on the tiny portion I took of liver balls.)

It’s an elegant wine, like a lady, complicated too.

You’re probably German, not Dutch.  In fact, you look Bavarian. (New friend explaining my heritage.)

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Over five days in August 2010, as a guest of the German Wine Institute press tour, I toured wineries in three regions and attended the annual international Riesling tasting for Sommeliers and wine buyers.

We were introduced to up & coming winemakers, proven mavericks of the modern era of German wine making, traditionalists, bastions of the villages, e.g., cooperatives, and an industry Sneak Preview of 2009 Riesling Releases (here’s a review of a previous year’s sneak preview).  We were treated to fine dining paired with educational wine tastings, luxury accommodations, welcoming guides, vineyard tours and lots of VIP tastings of old vintages.  Here’s a round up of what I learned:

  • It ain’t Blue Nun anymore.  Wine winemakers like Bernard Huber are making stunning wines. (Newsweek article.)
  • Village cooperatives are still commonplace. Co-ops provide bulk wine and money to grape growers. Most Germans drink this inexpensive wine ($2.99 – $5.99 euro) which is sold locally in grocery stores & restaurants. The co-ops are not well-respected in the international wine community although they are marketing improved quality to the press.
  • German wine makers are fascinated by aging wines.  After tasting a 10-year old Pinot Noir, the winemaker said that 1990 was a dream year, but it should age another 10 years. Aged Rieslings are the grand dame of German wine. (I tasted Rieslings from 1909, 1925, 1932 etc.)
  • According to internationally-respected Bernard Huber, the 2009 vintage is a banner year for Pinot Noir from his vineyards.
  • The sparkling wines I tasted were consistently good, they were dry Blanc de Blancs and hand riddled.
  • Top German wines are scarce in the US/Canada especially Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Pinot Blanc. Even great Rieslings are exported mostly to Europe & Japan. Following German wines can become something of a cult/ collector’s hobby.
  • Wine making styles in Germany are no different than anywhere else; while there are regional qualities that can be pinpointed, it varies from wine maker to wine maker.
  • The German Pinot Noirs that I tasted were comparable to different regions/wine makers in California. I named styles similar to a Merry Edwards Russian River Valley (a 2001 Weingut-Huber), Dry Creek (’07 Baron Philipp), Santa Ynez (2008 Neiss) & Santa Lucia Highlands (2007 Weingut Huber)
  • Many young wine makers are going away to school and are less traditional. I applaud this trend, if we are to enjoy German wine in the states, they have to be more accessible, i.e., drinkable now, easy-to-read labels, and high-quality wine imports.
  • Chardonnay is becoming popular for wine makers.  These cool region grapes benefited from malolactic fermentation in oak.  I enjoyed the Chardonnay I tasted.
  • Some of my tasting notes for Pinot Noir: smokey bacon, green pepper, black cherries, ripe cherries, roses.
  • While on the Pinot Trio tour, we tasted lots of Rieslings too. I learned that I vastly prefer dry Riesling and there are a lot of good ones, but an occasional sweet wine is lovely as an aperitif or after-dinner wine.

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Among California wine professionals, posts discussing hospitality faux pas elicit copious responses. Tasting room jobs are sought after by wine enthusiasts willing to work long days, special events and weekends. No matter how tired or disturbed they are, they can’t show it. If the winery’s mission is to be known for it’s wonderful hospitality, staff can’t carry around any negativity; admittedly a tall order but it’s the difference between a hit & miss winery and an excellent winery.

Industry professionals are often flummoxed by two arguments: 1) who is at fault–the seemingly rude customer or an employee listening with an agenda? and (2) what comeback might be justified as a response.

In Germany, I had an amusing exchange with a restaurant worker who was overwhelmed and listening with an agenda.

Three minutes after leaving my hotel, it started to rain and quickly turned into a deluge.  I ducked into the nearest restaurant along with 100 other people.  Literally, an almost empty restaurant was immediately packed.  A greeter told me to order at the counter, gave me a little credit card and said to pay on my way out. I queued up with other patrons who sent their children scurrying to secure tables.  I watched and listened carefully so I could find my way through the process. When my turn came, speaking only English, I told the Italian who spoke German that I wanted a house salad and to add prosciutto to it. I had followed the lead of the woman in front of me who had requested chicken on her salad.

The man glared at me and said, “you want ham?!”  I replied, “prosciutto.”  He then flung his hand into a tray and pulled out a fist of ham, “this is ham!,” he bellowed, then he turned, opened a refrigerator and took out a tub of uncooked chicken, “This is chicken! What do you want?” I wondered why doesn’t a guy who’s name must be Carlo Giovanni know the word prosciutto?

A well-dressed German lady offered to translate, “what do you want, maybe I can help?” she asked sweetly.  I timidly said, “prosciutto?” She slowly turned and eye-locked the guy behind the counter; without another word being said, he shut his mouth, look chagrined and put prosciutto on my salad.

My second hospitality story is a fable with the moral at the end.

My first morning at a 4-star hotel in Paris, I enjoyed some packet-coffee and cream in my room, took a shower, washed some laundry in the sink and contemplated my 7-day stay. I had reservations elsewhere but booked this hotel after coming in two days early. I absolutely loved the hotel I was in, so I decided to stay the full week and cancel my other reservation.

Perhaps since I had just enjoyed 5-days in Germany and was thinking about the impressive efficiency I had experienced, I decided to write down my preferences for coffee and laundry and give it to the hotel staff.  I waltzed downstairs and handed my little note to the lady at the desk and announced, “Since I’m staying for a week, I thought I’d let you know my preferences.  Is it okay to have 3 coffees and six creams in my room every day? And I’ll reuse my towels, so don’t wash them daily unless I leave them on the floor.” I said all of this sweetly with a smile, so imagine my surprise, when the short French lady with the sturdy frame said with a poker-face, “We can not do that.”

“You can’t give me 3 coffees and 6 creams?” I asked, genuinely taken aback.

“No,” she continued with a completely straight face, “That was your welcome, only.” I replied, “I’ve never heard of such a thing, you don’t replenish the coffee packets?” “No, it is only your welcome.  You have coffee at breakfast. And we change the towels every day.  Some hotels don’t, that is not how we do it here,” and then she dismissed me with a curt movement of her head.

As I walked around Paris, I thought about both of these exchanges.  The Italian-German was obviously listening with an agenda so he could not hear my request;  perhaps I was the only person ever to ask for proscuitto on my salad so he did not trust his hearing.  I had also probably offended the order of things, orderliness is  revered in Germany, so my bad.

With Grace (who I later found out was the manager) I concluded that although my intention was good, I had come across as a rude American and she had got me back good.  I smiled when I realized that she had got me back in her French way; a straight face and just saying, nope, can’t do it, even though of course she could. When I returned to the hotel, my room was exactly as I had requested, and the next morning, I waltzed down the stairs and shared a knowing smile with her, Good Morning Grace! she smiled back, Bonjour Mademoiselle.

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I attended San Francisco tastings for two years sponsored by Wines of Germany  / German Wine Institute and private importer Terry Theiss before being invited to Germany.

I accepted the invitation, not for a free trip to Germany but because I wanted the “real” scoop.  At industry events, I prefer in-depth interviews/ conversations with winemakers to tasting 100+ wines; however, the whirlwind environment doesn’t support the drawing of a solid picture.

Stateside, I had been told two things that I wanted to check out for myself: 1) German wine making was environmentally friendly and 2) there is a movement for modernizing German wine labels. Like a journalist on the hunt, I looked for signs indicated truisms, partially true or false.

I am a proponent of all grape growers being responsible stewards of the environment and I prefer my wine to be made in a style that treats the wine gently with little or no additives or industrial processing.

In Germany, I visited a dozen wineries in three regions and attended a tasting of approx. 350 German wines. (329 at the formal tasting, and the rest at the party the night before.) I received literature from the German Wine Institute as well as the wineries. Bottom line, the picture was not unlike the US. Some wine makers are very dedicated to natural wine making, including adhering to the principles of organic farming, while others don’t discuss it. For me, I found it disturbing that large amounts of sulfur are added to many Rieslings. This goes against my preference to let grapes express themselves with minimal interference. *

On the label issue, I would like to see exported German wines with interesting and understandable labels so that more Americans would pick up a bottle and try it. German wine labels are written in German, i.e., Pinot Blanc is Wiessburgunder. Additionally, the labels sport highly complex legal and traditional descriptions, making it impossible for an untutored consumer to figure out who made the wine and where it was made.  No English translation (even of the grape) and too many references re: villages, regions, dry, off dry, and sweet add up to…lower sales of German wines in America.

There was good news/bad news on the export front.  Apparently some distributors are advising wine makers not to translate their labels for the US market and they are not importing their best wines. For example, I tasted two relatively nice Pinot Noirs from a winery that exports, yet he only sends the cheaper, non-reserve to the US at the advice of his distributor.  I met several wine makers in the same boat.

The good news is that I believe there is an exciting movement among modern German wine makers who are more than willing to make their wines more accessible, by translating, simplifying, being environmentally responsible and making natural wine.

There are so many wine enthusiasts and wine drinkers in the US who would love to try foreign wines (e.g., Australia, South America, South Africa).  It’s true we are not getting the best of what those countries make (yet), but I can only imagine that the next export step will be higher-end wines.

In conclusion, a BIG thank you (Danke!) to the German Wine Institute for inviting me and being wonderful hosts.

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