Pairing Petite Sirah
Posted in Varietals, Wine & Food on Mar 24th, 2011
My Petite Sirah checklist has evolved over years of tasting. As a newbie, I thought 1) they are all around 15% or more in alcohol; 2) when they are young they are too in-your-face (not in a good way); 3) I have to use my brain to pair them (unlike a Merlot) and 4) they mostly cost over $20 a bottle. After ten years as a PS fan, now I know, 1) many Petite Sirahs are actually 13.5 but if they are well balanced, who cares if they are 15? 2) The best ones are not released too soon and it is definitely a grape to cellar; 3) after so many years of pairing, I relish a challenge and 4) even though most Petites are $20 and up, I’ve never thought of them as expensive because they are such hard-to-get unique wines and there are several larger producers like Bogle that sell for around $10.
Consistent with it’s current multiple personalities, Petite Sirah can be paired with lots of different food depending on winemaker style, terroir and age. I’ve enjoyed easy-drinking Bogle with tri tip, mushrooms, Worchester, red pepper and brown garlic rice. In 2007, I wrote enthusiastically about a memorable pairing of a 2004 Guenoc Petite Sirah with apple bourbon pork chops. The ’08 Harney Lane reminds me of popcorn. A winemaker recently told me that a Chef shocked him by creating a perfect pairing of mint chocolate chip ice cream and a brownie with his Petite. He said it was one of the best pairings he’s tasted in a long time.
This is one reason Dark & Delicious is my favorite event of the year, every vintner is paired with a food station, the way I think all tastings should be. One of the best pairings this year was BBQ pulled pork on a rice crisp with micro-greens by DK Catering. I did not expect the rice crisp to work but it was the true genius of the pairing. Another surprise winner was a special paella from Venga Paella Catering paired with Berryessa Gap’s field blend with 86% Durif (Petite Sirah’s other name). The winemaker is a UC Davis researcher who believes strongly that it’s all about terroir so he does very little “tinkering” to make signature and expressive wines. Berryessa Gap also advocates pairing food with Petite and has an annual Paella party in May.
Many Petite producers have recipes on their web sites and grilled meats are popular. Smoking Loon suggests trying a burger with a Balsamic reduction sauce with their Petite. My pairing trick for unfamiliar wines; look up the winemaker’s notes online or on the back of the bottle and then create a menu that reflects some of the descriptors, e.g. blackberries, smoke, cinnamon, etc. I also open the wine while I’m cooking, taste it and adjust my recipe accordingly.









