Wine & Food

Pairing Petite Sirah

My Petite Sirah checklist has evolved over years of tasting.  As a newbie, I thought 1) they are all around 15% or more in alcohol; 2) when they are young they are too in-your-face (not in a good way); 3) I have to use my brain to pair them (unlike a Merlot) and 4) they mostly cost over $20 a bottle.  After ten years as a PS fan, now I know, 1) many Petite Sirahs are actually 13.5 but if they are well balanced, who cares if they are 15? 2) The best ones are not released too soon and it is definitely a grape to cellar; 3) after so many years of pairing, I relish a challenge and 4) even though most Petites are $20 and up, I’ve never thought of them as expensive because they are such hard-to-get unique wines and there are several larger producers like Bogle that sell for around $10.

Consistent with it’s current multiple personalities, Petite Sirah can be paired with lots of different food depending on winemaker style, terroir and age.  I’ve enjoyed easy-drinking Bogle with tri tip, mushrooms, Worchester, red pepper and brown garlic rice.  In 2007, I wrote enthusiastically about a memorable pairing of a 2004 Guenoc Petite Sirah with apple bourbon pork chops.  The ’08 Harney Lane reminds me of popcorn.  A winemaker recently told me that a Chef shocked him by creating a perfect pairing of mint chocolate chip ice cream and a brownie with his Petite.  He said it was one of the best pairings he’s tasted in a long time.

This is one reason Dark & Delicious is my favorite event of the year, every vintner is paired with a food station, the way I think all tastings should be.  One of the best pairings this year was BBQ pulled pork on a rice crisp with micro-greens by DK Catering.  I did not expect the rice crisp to work but it was the true genius of the pairing.  Another surprise winner was a special paella from Venga Paella Catering paired with Berryessa Gap’s field blend with 86% Durif (Petite Sirah’s other name).  The winemaker is a UC Davis researcher who believes strongly that it’s all about terroir so he does very little “tinkering” to make signature and expressive wines.  Berryessa Gap also advocates pairing food with Petite and has an annual Paella party in May.

Many Petite producers have recipes on their web sites and grilled meats are popular.  Smoking Loon suggests trying a burger with a Balsamic reduction sauce with their Petite.  My pairing trick for unfamiliar wines; look up the winemaker’s notes online or on the back of the bottle and then create a menu that reflects some of the descriptors, e.g. blackberries, smoke, cinnamon, etc.  I also open the wine while I’m cooking, taste it and adjust my recipe accordingly.

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Easy, quick and healthy.

Clam Linguine

  • Linguine pasta for 2 people
  • 1 can Snow’s Minced Clams
  • 2 tbs quality olive oil
  • 3 tbs white onion (chopped)
  • 1/2 cup sliced brown mushrooms
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 1 cup Sauvignon Blanc
  • 1 tbs fresh squeezed lemon juice
  • 2 tsp tarragon
  • 1/4 cup fresh parsley (chopped)
  • shake of red pepper flakes
  • salt and pepper

Prepare the linguine in boiling, well-salted water until al dente.

Open the clams and discard the liquid.  Heat oil on medium high in a non-stick pan. Saute onion and mushrooms. When mushrooms are sweating (well-cooked), reduce heat to medium.  Add garlic, 1/2 of the wine, lemon juice and tarragon. When wine is almost gone, the mushrooms and onions will be infused with flavor. Add clams, rest of wine, and parsley. Stir in red pepper flakes and salt and pepper to taste.  Add drained pasta to the pan, mix well and serve hot.

You can use fresh clams but the idea for this recipe is quick and easy–thus using canned.  I also purposefully omit clam juice unlike most recipes because I think it’s better just to use wine.  The clams are not the star in this version, all the flavors melted together makes this dish special. Btw, Snow’s didn’t sponsor this post, it just happens to be my favorite brand.

Pairing

It doesn’t have to be a Sauvignon Blanc: any unoaked or lightly French-oaked white wine with a hint of lemon will work.  If the wine has a lot of lemon or citrus, it overwhelms the dish.  The earthiness is more important (parsley, mushrooms, red pepper flakes). A well-balanced light-bodied earthy red is another option.

Serve with petite whole grain rolls and a Caesar salad.

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When I was in Germany, we were treated to nightly food and wine pairing dinners. They ranged from elegant to homespun…all delightful.  At 8:30pm after an 11 hour flight, I began my immersion into genuine German food & wine.

Here’s the menu (and interpretations) just like I experienced it. Don’t glaze over all the German words like I once did, here’s an opportunity to learn so you can enjoy the truly fabulous wine of Germany.

Aperitif

  • 2009er Durbacher Plauerlrain Klingelberger (Riesling) Kabinett trocken

*Definition: the year is treated like a verb in German wine, therefore it is a ’2009′er. Durbacher is the name of the wine region/village. Plauerlrain is the name of the winery and Klingelberger is the local name for Riesling. A Kabinett is a lighter style of German white wine. Trocken means dry in style.

1st Course

  • Chervil cream soup with pike balls
  • 2009er Durbacher KochbergGrauer Burgunder dry
  • 2009er Durbacher Steinberg Weiber Burgunder late vintage dry

*Chervil is an herb with a slight licorice flavor, also called gourmet’s parsley. It’s great in light dishes like soup. Pike balls are made of white fish. Now you already know that Durbacher is the region and Kochberg is the winery.  Grauer Burgunder is the German equivalent of Pinot Gris (France) or Pinot Grigio (Italy).  Although it says “dry”, they could have written Trocken. The second wine, Weiber Burgunder is the same as France’s Pinot Blanc. Late vintage dry means it was harvested late and made in the dry style (fermented so the sugar level is low). The German term is Spätlese.

2nd Course

  • Pork Medallions roasted with sage & Parma ham, vegetable from the market & thin noodles
  • 2008er Durbacher International Pinot Noir QbA dry
  • 2006er Durbacher Stienberg Red Wine Dry – matured in Barrique barrels (Cabernet Sauvignon x Merlot x Lemberger x Pinot Noir)

*The typical German meal that I experienced consisted of meat and noodles. The first wine served with this course represents the region/village wine.  QbA designates a “fine wine from a certain place.”  The second wine is a blend of grapes made in French oak barrels. Lemberger is a German grape that is hated by certain connoisseurs and appreciated by others…see my post about the Grand Tasting.

Dessert Course

  • Strawberry buttermilk terrine with mango-passion fruit sorbet & fresh berries
  • 2008er  Durbacher Kochberg Spatburgunder Weissherbst Auslese
  • 2008er Durbacher Plauelrain Scheurebe Beerenauslese

*The first wine is a rosé (Weissherbst or Weiberherbst) of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder).  Auslese means selected harvest. The last wine was very unique to Germany: Scheurebe is a grape and Beerenauslese is a style (very sweet, late harvest), the link goes to a wonderful pyramid from Wines of Germany (my hosts) that shows sweetness levels of German wines.

Thanks to my writer buddies who interpreted everything for me as we drank and ate. Quote of the evening regarding the last wine, that wine is tooth throttling sweet!

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Starmont Winery, Napa (photo courtesy of Merryvale.com)

I’m always looking for a good value white wine that I can enjoy after work while I cook dinner.  These are usually grocery store wines as opposed to the wines I get direct from a winery.  When I find a wine I like, I buy a case, stock them in my wine refrigerator and enjoy them for months.

Some past favorites include Bogle Chardonnay (2008) and Dry Creek Vineyards Chardonnay (2008).  I’m not always in the mood for Chardonnay; I went through a Beringer Pinot Grigio phase, but winter calls for a bigger, rounder wine.

My latest find is not cheap per se but it is extremely good value at $20 (Costco).  Wine Spectator gave the Merryvale 2008 Starmont Chardonnay 90 points and I wholeheartedly agree.

Here’s some tips for finding a value wine to love:

  • Try different wines within your price range.  Buy one bottle.  If you like it, go back and get 3 more.  If you love it, get a case.
  • Value wines bought at grocery stores can be in inconsistent from bottle to bottle. I believe it’s usually a storage problem–the wine has gotten too hot, cold or disturbed in transit. (This is why I buy all my best wines direct from the winery or a trusted wine shop.)  To protect yourself, have 3 bottles on hand, if one bottle is bad, open another one to enjoy and return the bad bottle.*
  • Vintages matter.  Most value brands strive for consistency in taste from year to year, but in my opinion, not all of them succeed.  I have loved a particular value wine for a year, then the next vintage just doesn’t have the same flavor,so I drop the brand for awhile.
  • When it comes to box wine or $3 wine, you can do better. I encourage folks to enjoy wine, don’t just drink it to relax from a busy day. Cheap and convenient is never good criteria for picking out wine.
  • Don’t get into a rut.  If your friend, family and neighbors all know your favorite value brand, it’s time to try something new.

*Some grocery stores might give you a problem with returning a bottle of wine.  They are protecting themselves from people who want to return a lot of wine after a party. Be firm, if the wine is corked or tainted in some way and you’re taking the time to return it; insist that they replace the bottle. If they don’t, shop elsewhere in the future, and let them know.

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Port – Full of Surprises

Port has always intrigued me, what is this wine that isn’t wine?  For years, I tried it by ordering it in restaurants and friends would introduce me to a supposedly-great Port; I enjoyed it but it never rocked my world…until recently.

In February 2009, I visited Prager Portworks in Napa and wrote about the visit.  I distinctly remember four remarkable points they made: 1) their Port is dry not sweet; 2) they insist it can be paired with food; 3) they named it after their daughters/nieces etc; and 4) an open bottle will be drinkable for months.

I bought 4-5 bottles and kept them in my temperature-controlled wine refrigerator. The interesting part is that I uncorked them in February ’09 and shared them with friends for 16 months. They all held up over time except one that was not stored properly (re-corking is okay but not as safe as using a rubber enclosure.)

On June 25, 2010 Hubby & I took out an open 2004 Aria White Port to enjoy with dessert.  That’s when Port rocked my world.  I didn’t expect it to be very good, having been open so long, but au contraire, it was better!  It was one of those rare tasting memories that will forever be seared in my brain.

So, next stop Prager Port to restock.  I’m so looking forward to kicking back and spending some time with these extraordinary Port makers.

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A New White Wine Favorite

Sign at Oxbow Market in Napa

Jim Moore was one of the first winemakers I personally met that helped me “get started” in the wine industry. He was a mentor by providing encouragement & being available, even when he was busy getting his label started.  I wrote a few posts about Jim & his wine in 2008.

While visiting the Wine Merchant at Oxbow Market (on the Riverfront in Napa), I was excited to see several of Jim’s wines available.  I picked up the Vermentino for less then $15. It’s fabulous & next time, I’m buying a case.

The reviews on CellarTracker describe the wine well; although I caution paying any attention whatsoever  to the points given by strangers.  TIP: If you follow folks long enough on CellarTracker & taste the wines they review & find you have a similar palate, then their points will be useful to you.

*This winery is so small, they haven’t gotten around to finishing their web site.  But, the good news is, the wine is amazing, affordable and available at several retailers.

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The 82nd Annual Oscar Awards aired on Sunday.  I usually don’t watch the TV ceremony, I just order the list of nominated movies that interest me from Netflix. I also love looking at the dresses in USA Today the next day.  This year though, I was folding laundry at 5:00 pm and turned on the TV.  When Steve Martin & Alec Baldwin, the hosts, started to rift, I was hooked.

I watched from the kitchen as I made an old favorite recipe and a pear salad*.

As everything was finishing up, I went in search of a rich, balanced Merlot.  Because I was distracted by the Oscars, I forgot to pull out a wine and decant it before starting to cook.  When I chose a wine that was sent to me to sample, I was worried that I might not be giving it a fair try since it was straight out of the wine refrigerator.

I quickly opened it and let it breathe a moment then poured a little in my glass, swirled and sipped.  Wow!  I loved it.  I could taste the Merlot and the blends of Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc.  For me, a good Merlot is a real stand out.  I easily tolerate a so-so Merlot but when I taste a really enjoyable Merlot, it’s memorable.

It’s limited (1,100 cases) but if you can visit the winery or get a bottle online, I recommend it.  Merriam Vineyards 2005 Windacre Russian River Merlot (14.2% alcohol).  I found it to be rich, fruit forward yet nice and earthy, like wine should be (I don’t want fruit juice!) I also tasted blueberry on the long finish.  I appreciated that the back label describes where the grapes are grown, the soil and the exact percentages in the blend.

My pairing was okay; although I was pleased that the wine worked with the pear salad as well as the chicken/bacon dish. I will probably serve it with lamb next time.

It wasn’t my intention to drink the wine while watching the Oscars but it was a wonderful memory!

Pear Arugula Salad

  • 1 1/2 cup Arugula
  • 2 tbls Briana’s Champagne Caper Dressing
  • 1/2 Danjou Pear (sliced)
  • Trader Joe’s Poppy Seed Dressing

Tear the Arugula and place in bowl.  Drizzle Champagne Caper Dressing on the lettuce and toss.  Place lettuce on individual plates.  Place pears slices in a fan shape on the lettuce.  Drizzle with Poppy Seed Dressing.

*Both dressings are slightly sweet but mostly earthy with a very slight tanginess.  I find that they pair nicely with wine because there’s a balance between sugar and acid.

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This is a very simple gourmet dinner that takes about 30 minutes. It’s best to open the wine & set the table before starting to prepare this meal. Make the salad first & set aside.

Gourmet Greens, Chickpeas & Shaved Parmesan Salad

  • 1 cup cooked farfelle (small bowtie) pasta
  • 2 cups gourmet mixed greens that include radicchio, Belgian Endive & Arugula*
  • 1/3 cup chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

Dressing

  • 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tbsp chicken broth
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 ounce shaved fresh Parmesan cheese
  • 1 tbs parsley

Cooked the pasta in salted water.  Set aside and let cool while you make the dressing. Put the dressing ingredient in a tight jar and shake vigorously to mix.  Place the greens in a big salad bowl, add the drained pasta & chickpeas.  Right before serving, toss with dressing, then add Parmesan & parsley.

*It’s fun to buy the three lettuces separately but I think it’s more economical to purchase a bag of mixed greens.  If you buy the greens separately, trim the arugula and tear pieces to make 2/3 cup; thinly slice the endive & radicchio (2/3 cup ea). I also use condensed chicken broth in a jar so I don’t have open boxes or cans that go bad.  Put a tsp of condensed broth & a cup of water in a tightly shut jar & keep it in the fridge for a week.

Honey-Glazed Salmon

  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tbsp white wine
  • 1 tbsp honey
  • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 2 (5 oz each) salmon fillets
  • 1/2 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped (or dried)
  • Olive oil & butter for frying the Salmon
  • Salt & pepper to taste

Cook garlic in small sauce pan for 3 minutes then add wine, honey, vinegar & mustard. Simmer, uncovered for about 3 minutes & remove from heat & cover to keep warm.

Heat the olive oil & butter (for flavor if you desire) to a hot skillet.  Add the salmon.  Add salt & pepper to taste (both sides). Cook on one side for 3 minute.  Turn over.  Return the sauce to the stove and bring to a simmer.  Cook the salmon for 4 minutes.  Put the salmon on individual plates and top with hot glaze.

Finish dressing the salad and serve immediately.

Serves 2.

Pairing

Serve with Cline Sonoma County Zinfandel, 2007 ($26).  This wine is awesome with the balsamic vinegar, honey & mustard.  It has a flavor that reminds me of BBQ sauce.

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Open That Bottle Night 2010

I first heard about the last Saturday in February being Open That Bottle Night in 2009. Of course, I believe any night is the perfect time to open a special bottle–you have the right guests, great food, or a reason to celebrate–open a great bottle of wine–I’ve never had regrets.

This year I opened a 2007 Ravenswood Russian River, Belloni Vineyard Zinfandel that I picked up when I hosted a corporate group for a Ravenswood Blending Seminar.

I paired this vineyard-designate wine with an easy, yet luscious meal.

Brie & Strawberry Salad

  • 1 1/2 cups pre-mixed greens salad (I like the herb mix & spinach is fine too)
  • 1/3 cup sliced ripe strawberries
  • 2 chopped scallions
  • 1/4 cup chopped Brie
  • 1/8 cup halved walnuts
  • 3 – 4 tbsp Ken’s Raspberry Walnut Vinegar Dressing (or similar)

Combine greens, scallions & strawberries in bowl.  Mix well with dressing.  Add Brie & walnuts & toss lightly.  Serve on individual salad plates.

Lamb Shanks & Dark Cherry Sauce

  • 4 large lamb shanks
  • 1/2 cup Dark Pitted Cherries in juice (Whole Foods deli or jarred)
  • 1 clove chopped garlic
  • 1/4 cup chopped sweet onion
  • 1/4 cup red wine (Merlot or Zin)
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • salt & pepper to taste
  • 1 tbsp butter

Grill the chops for about 4 minutes per side, wrap in foil and let sit.

In a sauce pan, combine all ingredients except butter.  Simmer for 5 minutes to reduce.  Stir in butter.  Put chops in a hot skillet, pour sauce over them & stir it around for 3 minutes.  This creates a glaze/sauce.  Serve immediately.

Baby Asparagus

I found some lovely, thin asparagus so I just steamed a handful, sprinkled a bit of balsamic vinegar over them, and violá!

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psiloveyou

Quick Time Movie – 7 seconds

Petite Sirah is a fun grape to get to know. It’s unusual in many respects.  Learn a little from the Petite Sirah fan club & advocacy organization–psiloveyou.

Here’s three of my favorites:

  • Michael & David 2005 Earthquake Petite Sirah.  I liked their 2002 so much I bought them as business gifts that year, along with their Incognito Viognier.  This wine is easy to find.  I believe that both World Market & BevMo carry it.  You can also have it shipped from their website.
  • Fortress Vineyards 2007 Petite Sirah.  This was my first introduction to this winery.  I met mom, Barbara & daughter Kate & was delighted with their wine.  It’s a small family winery with vineyards in Lake County.  Purchase their wines from their website or look for it in restaurants & events.
  • Jazz Cellars, 2006 Eagle Point Ranch Petite Sirah.  I’ve been following this two-man team for several years, and I was extremely impressed with this wine. (It’s an award winner too.) Their website is educational and lists places to meet them and their wines.

*Video of my friend, Herlinda Heras, at the Dark & Delicious, psiloveyou event on the old Alameda Navel Base.

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