Picks

Port – Full of Surprises

Port has always intrigued me, what is this wine that isn’t wine?  For years, I tried it by ordering it in restaurants and friends would introduce me to a supposedly-great Port; I enjoyed it but it never rocked my world…until recently.

In February 2009, I visited Prager Portworks in Napa and wrote about the visit.  I distinctly remember four remarkable points they made: 1) their Port is dry not sweet; 2) they insist it can be paired with food; 3) they named it after their daughters/nieces etc; and 4) an open bottle will be drinkable for months.

I bought 4-5 bottles and kept them in my temperature-controlled wine refrigerator. The interesting part is that I uncorked them in February ‘09 and shared them with friends for 16 months. They all held up over time except one that was not stored properly (re-corking is okay but not as safe as using a rubber enclosure.)

On June 25, 2010 Hubby & I took out an open 2004 Aria White Port to enjoy with dessert.  That’s when Port rocked my world.  I didn’t expect it to be very good, having been open so long, but au contraire, it was better!  It was one of those rare tasting memories that will forever be seared in my brain.

So, next stop Prager Port to restock.  I’m so looking forward to kicking back and spending some time with these extraordinary Port makers.

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Where to Stay in Sonoma

Loxton Winery, Australian Wine maker, Sonoma, CA

Loxton Winery

If you’re looking for a California resort in the town of Sonoma, MacArthur Place is the only game in town. It has everything I want in a resort—-a pool, spa, boutique shopping (next to the Spa), complimentary wine & cheese pairings in the Library, a martini bar, on-site breakfast (in bed too), a variety of room choices (all fabulously decorated) and flower gardens with sculptures (e.g., eye candy).  It’s just a few blocks from the Sonoma Plaza on a residential, tree-lined street and very convenient for wine tasting in that area.

If you want privacy & a kitchen, I recommend renting a home.  I have a great recommendation in the Kenwood/Glen Ellen, a beautiful area with lovely wineries.

Or give a shout out to Wendy at Stay Sonoma, a friend of mine that can get you a great insider’s deal.

(Picture is of Loxton Cellars.)

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Von Strasser Winery, Napa, Diamond Mountain

Von Strasser, located on Diamond Mountain just outside of St. Helena, feels like an intimate retreat for serious fans. Pretty, smart & welcoming women host the tours/tastings carrying baskets of wine like a cross between Little Bo Peep & the St. Pauli Girl.  There are several tours/tastings that you can reserve by telephone or just schedule a tasting appointment.  They define their wine-making style as Diamond Mountain Intensity with the Finesse of Bordeaux. In my opinion, they’re in the cult Cab league, however, their Cabernet Sauvignon prices range from $50 to $125 which is a considerable bargain for collectors. What draws me to this winery is the feeling of peacefulness.  I recommend that if you visit & enjoy the wines, join the club and take advantage of feeling like you own a little piece of Diamond Mountain.

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Three Wines for Mom

Painting of Alana by Pappy (Doc E)

Dear Mom,

I’m so glad you liked your Mother’s Day gift.  As promised, here’s some info about the wine & some pairing suggestions.  xo, Alana

Dry Chenin Blanc (Casa Nuestra 2009, Old Vine, St Helena Estates)

I picked this fine representation of the Chenin Blanc grape in remembrance of the 1970’s, when I was just a wee one & you were a budding wine drinker. I remembered the grape because I was fortunate to be seated next to Gene Kirkham, owner of Casa Nuestra & his lovely wife (& my new friend) Katrina, at their winery’s 30th anniversary dinner.  Gene explained a little about the grape’s history to me.  Although it is a respected varietal from France’s Loire Valley, it’s introduction in the Napa Valley was weak–to be kind.  In the ’70’s Krug & Beringer and Gene’s other contemporaries picked it green and added sugar. According to Gene, it wasn’t at all “like real Chenin Blanc.”  Lucky for you and me, today Gene likes to introduce old Napa grapes to wine lovers and he makes Chenin Blanc in the Loire style–proving that great Chenin Blanc can be made in Napa. He only made 290 cases of this commemorative vintage.

Pairing

This is a light white wine with a hint of citrus so you can’t go wrong with scallops with lemon zest, crab/lobster & drawn lemon butter, or a white fish fillet. For veggies, try steamed green beans tossed with a touch of Dijon, salt & pepper & thyme. Salad with a subtle goat cheese, toasted almonds & citrus dressing.  It will also pair well with an omelette.  Look for other French recipes.

Tinto (2007, Casa Nuestra St. Helena Estate)

Casa Nuestra’s Tinto (aka red table wine) is interesting to me because it’s a field blend. Gene’s mom acquired their first vineyard in 1956.  Back then (for various reasons) a variety of grapevines were planted in the same field. Nowadays of course, most vineyards are carefully segregated to insure varietal integrity and blending takes place in the cellar.  But thank goodness for the few folks like Gene who still produce real field blends. There are nine varietals in the 2007 Tinto.

Pairing

This is a nice wine to have for a second course.  Warm your palate up with a first course with a light wine or bubbly.  If you have a wine aerator, it would be fun to taste the wine with and without aeration. Casa Nuestra’s Tinto pairs well with earthy food.  Beef with wild mushrooms, risotto, dry aged cheese, crispy leeks.  Oh my, I’m thinking I should open one tonight!

Late Harvest French Colombard (Casa Nuestra 2008)

I love introducing people to exceptional dessert and aperitif wines. Every meal should end with a bite of perfectly paired dessert!  Good sweet wines don’t remind one of sugar, instead the delicious flavors of the grape pop out and delight the taste buds. This wine was made from almost 70 year old vines and dry farmed which means the grapes really have to work hard. Botrytis is present and is responsible for that moment when you say, “wow! that doesn’t seem sugary,” because it causes a smooth non-crystalline juice.

Pairing

Buy some mini lemon cheesecakes or any cake that has lemon zest from your favorite bakery or Trader Joe’s. Cookies and sorbet are a fund pairing too.

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Hawley Winery

John Hawley & Sons made this bar out of barrels.

Jay (Vine Rover Tours) introduced me to Hawley’s in 2009.  The ten acres of vineyards and one small barrel room is truly an “insiders” spot. Unless someone takes you, you’ll never know it’s there.  Visiting small tucked-away wineries is fun but discovering that they make really good wine is even better.

John Hawley has a rich and fascinating winemaking pedigree that is even more interesting because he left the glamor jobs (at Clos du Val & Kendall Jackson) to sweat in his own vineyards. Winemakers who are owners, especially those that make lots of different wines, are like whirlwinds moving from one task to another.  John is no different.  His sons, Paul & Austin work with him.  Paul is a film maker as well, he co-wrote and produced the movie Corked with Bella Winery’s Ross Clendenen.  I don’t want to embarrass Austin, but he has lots of female admirers who have begged me to take them to “see Austin.”  Both men are very personable and welcoming, and you’ll probably see one or another in the tasting room.

In Spring 2010, the Hawley’s opened a tasting room and art gallery (to showcase paintings by Dana Hawley aka Paul & Austin’s mom) in downtown Healdsburg.  I highly recommend a visit.  They make nine wines, all small lots (under 500 cases each) except for their Viogner and Merlot. Currently, Paul & Austin’s first Sauvignon Blanc (2009 Dry Creek Valley) is a favorite of mine.  I’m also a huge fan of their Viogner and Late Harvest Zinfandel.  The Viogner is a consistent medal winner. The Late Harvest Zin (2008 Dry Creek Valley) pairs very well with bread pudding.

Go see them when in Healdsburg & tell them you were sent from Girl with a Glass!  You can also try their wines by buying them online.


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Artiste Winery

Artiste Tasting Room, Healdsburg

I relentlessly research wineries  looking for the ultimate experience or at least anything other than belly-up-to-the-bar.  Of course, they also have to make interesting and yummy wine.

I was recently introduced to a winery that is all about giving folks a unique experience.  At first glance, Artiste, a short stroll past Healdsburg Plaza, looks like an open art studio: I didn’t know anything about it and had never tasted their wines. However, Hubby brought home a case of wine as payment for a favor he did for the owner, so I got the pleasure of pairing them.

My experience with Artiste wines was a memorable multi-step process:

1.    The labels were extraordinary and got my attention.
2.    I loved the wax enclosures (I found out later that my friend Stu from Etched Images provides the wax).
3.    The blend described on the back was highly interesting (multi-vintage and multi-varietal). The art of winemaking is in the blending, (Bion Rice, winemaker & master blender). *
4.    Upon tasting it, the wine was very, very good and fun to pair with a meal.

When choosing a wine for dinner, I either select a bottle because it’s an old standby (Sangiovese with Italian), it’s from a predictable producer so I know exactly what to expect, it’s a special bottle saved just for that recipe or I’m excited about what the label says and can’t wait to try it.  The last choice is my favorite and it happens rarely because 1) some vintners don’t bother to provide details about what’s in the bottle or 2) there’s many more predictable wines than really interesting wines.

Every winery has a concept and a story.  I’m not a fan of wine that screams concept so I rarely buy cutesy labels (especially when it’s just a marketing gimmick).  Artiste is not like that, it is the real deal.  Bion’s passion is the concept.  His eyes widen and he smiles broadly when talking about creating wine and watching people experience it.  Who doesn’t love talking to an excited winemaker? But for me, there’s a big difference between a winemaker that talks about his process and a winemaker that talks about the drinker’s experience.

To encourage discovery and a taster’s personal sensory reaction to the wine, Artiste staff never mention words like chocolate, berries, citrus, etc. and the tasting notes don’t provide any flavor profiles just the grape, the vintage, the vineyard and the percentages of each in the blend.  It may seem strange at first, but it’s all part of the fun.  This is the same way I conduct my blind tastings at home.

Also at Artiste, you can lounge around on the retro couches, make your own art or enjoy the art on the walls.  Guests are encouraged to hang out.  Bion envisions a “community place.”  If I lived in Healdsburg, I’d hang out there, but for now, I’m an enthusiastic Artiste wine-lover.  My only problem is that I really like the bottle art so I’m getting a big collection of pretty wine bottles with dripless candles in them.

The Healdsburg winery is open Thurs – Mon for tastings, wine blending seminars are held regularly & it’s a popular spot for special events and private occasions.  The original and very popular Artiste is in Santa Barbara County.
* Here’s some examples of Artiste blends:

2006 Syrah, 2008 Syrah Rose & 2008 Viogner
2008 Grenache (3 vineyards) & 2006 Syrah
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (2 vineyards), 2007 Nebbiolo, & 2006 Syrah (2 vineyards)

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Cline Cellars

Cachet. When I visit this winery, I feel like I’ve come home. The drive onto the property is lined with rose bushes. The parking lot draws you towards a multitude of excellent choices…walk straight to one of three tasting rooms, head for a shady picnic table near one of several ponds, tour the one-of-kind museum of California Mission models or visit the exotic birds on display in the aviaries. All of these choices and yet the atmosphere feels like you have walked into someone’s private farm…albeit a very lovely one that makes fabulous wine.

Wine. Cline wines come in five groupings: Oakley (from the San Joaquin Delta area), California (blends from various vineyards), Sonoma County, Ancient Vines, and Single Vineyards. With all these choices, there is something for everyone! The Oakley group is often a best buy from Wine Enthusiast. The California series has interesting wines like Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah (blend) and Cline’s well-known California Zinfandel. Ancient vines are popular in California, people love to talk about them. Cline has four wines in this group: Mourvedre Rose, Carignane, Mourvedre and Zinfandel. The single vineyard wines are my favorite with the Small Berry Mourvedre leading the pack.

People. Everyone that I have encountered at this winery has a happy and relaxed demeanor…tasting room staff, winemakers, management and visitors. I use the tasting room reserved for club members…the cutest little room with two to three enthusiastic, smiling people behind the counter. I think the intimacy of this room lends a tremendous amount to the convivial atmosphere. But of course, it comes down to the people. They are genuinely enthusiastic and seem to love their jobs. Once at a large event, my husband and I were chatting with winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos and he got so excited by all of our questions, he spontaneously led us on a private barrel tasting.

Getting there. If you have one day to visit and you choose Sonoma County, I recommend you start or end your day at Cline. Marin County (where I live) is beautiful so if you are coming from San Francisco or points north, take advantage and drive through Marin. From Hwy 101, (the unfortunate asphalt divider of Marin) take Hwy 37 (a stunning Marsh area) to Hwy 121. Follow the signs to Sonoma and you’ll soon find yourself in rolling pastures surrounded by cows, goats and hawks. This is the Carneros AVA. Cline is one of the first wineries (on the left).

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Australian Winemaker in California

Loxton Cellars, Glen Ellen

Loxton Cellars, Glen Ellen

I first met Chris Loxton at a Rosé & paella party at my friend Margie’s home.  With his lovely accent, boyish good looks and sincere appreciation of fine wine, his neighbors in Sonoma are eager to show him off as one of their own.  He shared a bottle of his own extremely limited production of Rosé of Syrah, a dry, beautiful, fruit-driven yet balanced wine.

Chris’ winemaking is personal,  thoughtful & enthusiastic.  He loves talking “shop” but it’s never boring.  If he wasn’t so busy planting, pruning, harvesting, barreling, bottling & entertaining guests in his tasting/barrel room, I’d take up half his day chatting with him.

He makes small lots of Syrah & Zinfandel & blends.  Chris told me that he believes the hardest grape to work with is Zinfandel (not Pinot Noir which many people attest to).  He says that Zin doesn’t want to be good wine, so he works hard at it.

I highly recommend you check out Chris’ wines.  Use your VIP Pass for a Walk About with the Winemaker & Tasting for Four People (worth $40).

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Overheard

“Taming these savage hillsides is folly and all we can do is hope to coax a little civilization out of them. This is man working with nature at its glorious best.”    Mike Brunson, Winemaker & Vineyardist. Michel-Schlumberger Winery

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Enchanting Napa

Sciandri Family WInery

Sciandri Family WInery

Many visitors drive through Napa, see the large corporate/investor owned wineries and think this is Napa. If you’ve already been to these wineries or it’s just not your cup of tea, it’s time to discover alternatives.

Here are three fabulous, unique and intimate experiences that I highly recommend.

Sciandri Family Vineyards. (Pronounced She-an-dree) Located behind the city of Napa (northeast edge of the valley), you wind through Wild Horse Valley to an area called Coombsville (soon to be its own AVA) and park in front of the Sciandri’s house and tasting room. The vibe at Sciandri is relaxed and welcoming; their daughter tells a  fascinating story of how the family starting making wine just a few years ago, how her hard working parents came to rebuild an old house and pursue a dream that would ensure that their family stayed close.  Call for an appointment to sip their Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignon with a nice plate of Italian Salumi while pretending you live there for an afternoon at least. (Every appointment is a private tour and tasting, and groups from 2 -12 people are welcome.)

Black Cat Vineyard.  This must be the smallest winery in Napa. One woman does it all, and I mean everything.  When you visit Black Cat Winery, leave the cell phone, camera and video recorder in the car. Be in the moment and soak up Tracey Reichow’s massively intelligent and fascinating wine knowledge.  The view is outstanding, but her explanation about the Coombsville region being “wine mecca” makes it unforgettable. I love her Syrah & Cabernert Sauvignon; gently & lovingly crafted, a beautiful alternative to in-your-face big, bold “Napa” reds.

Casa Nuestra.  This winery is on the Silverado Trail on the farthest northern edge. When you drive up, you’ll see an unpaved driveway and a little yellow house.  It’s tiny, yet behind the scenes, they are making approx. 15 different wines!  This is one of my top ten wineries; I always find something I like and the people at the winery are sincerely welcoming. (It doesn’t seem right to call them staff because they are such an integrated part of the experience.)  A VIP Pass for a private tour and tasting is included in my guide.

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