Tag Archive 'Sonoma'

 

MacPhail Winery, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County

MacPhail Winery, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County

Part 2.  Read the back story and meet the wine…

Interview with James MacPhail, Winemaker, MacPhail Family Winery 

When did you start making wine, what was your position and with whom?  I started making my own wine in 2001 (it was a Merlot).  I was working at Pelligrini at that time – and that’s where Merry Edwards was making her wine before she built her own place.  I worked for both producers doing everything and anything that was asked of me.  There really wasn’t a name for it.  I guess “cellar rat” is the closest thing.

When did you start your own label?  2002

When did you partner with Hess? If you mean when was I contacted to be the winemaker for Sequana, that would be in the spring of 07.   If you mean when did Hess and MacPhail Family Wines come together, that would be June of 2011.

 How did that come about?  For 2007, I was on the list to be interviewed for Sequana. I went over with 3 bottles of my Pinot – no resume – and met with Dave Guffy.  We hit it off.  I got a call the next day and was offered the position.  If you mean 2011, that happened at the Taste of Vail event with CEO Gary Bulger – over a beer.

What are your favorite things to do when you are not making wine?  Sleep in, be with my family, go places and relax and soak up the sun.  Swim.  Go out with friends and try new places.

Do you have any goals or dreams in the winemaking business that you have yet to meet? If so, what are they?  I’d love to make wine in Argentina, do more research about this business; I’d like to teach.  It’s a never-ending quest.

Thanks James (& Kerry!), I finally got the answers to my burning questions. Regarding Argentina, interesting…everyone knows it’s my favorite place in the world (besides home). 

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Wine Enthusiasts vs Wine Snobs

Emily Haas Photo

When I lived in San Francisco, post-college, I dated a young sophisticated law firm partner.  He took me to all the best restaurants in the city. I was into food and cocktails and kept notes on where to go for the best martini, roasted garlic bulb, or fresh Focciaca.

Wine grabbed my full attention the evening he brought me to Ernie’s, a restaurant featured in Hitchcock’s Vertigo and a favorite with San Francisco’s wealthy social set.*  Dining at Ernie’s was way beyond any experience I’d had or even imagined. I remember three things about that evening; we ordered frog legs, three wait staff stood lined up at attention next to our table with white napkins laid over their left arms for the entire meal , and most of all, a thick leatherbound portfolio listing wines was presented by an intimating man with an impressive shiny chalice on a chain around his neck.  At that moment, staring at this strange episcopate figure with a European accent, I wanted to unravel the mystery of the wine list.

Being in my twenties in San Francisco, there was a lot to learn and enjoy, so wine was just another new adventure like attending the Opera, Symphony, Ballet, theatre, museums, galleries and special events. My job was in philanthropy so I got to attend parties at the Getty’s and other mansions in Pacific Heights.  For some reason, the large homes with full staffs and catered lunches didn’t intimidate me in the least, it was obvious to me who was interested in people and who was interested in money and pedigree.  Now that I’m immersed in the wine industry, my ability to separate the folks who are genuine wine enthusiasts from those who are “snobbish” comes in handy.

Here’s what I’ve observed:

Wine Enthusiasts. No matter where they are in their wine education, they just love wine. They enjoy a glass of wine at home, with good friends and neighbors and they never mention price unless it’s a great wine at a bargain. Sometimes they just enjoy it without talking about it at all.

Wine Snobs.  They tell you how much the wine costs before it’s even open. Their response to the wine such as “is this amazing wine or what?” is determined by the price, label or rarity.  They have funny rules like “I only like French wine or I only drink Napa Cab.”

Being a wine snob is reversible. My suggestion is to journey through wine’s past, present and future in the vineyards of the world through history, stories and images. Start at the beginning when wine was pure and unmanipulated.  You can also seek out wine makers who are bringing back the old winemaking traditions.

 

*Here’s a wonderful brief history of Ernie’s from a restaurant insider.

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Winter Winelands, Sonoma

As part of my wine education, a few years ago, I spent 2 1/2 years visiting wineries, year-round, four days a week.  I loved talking to wine makers, owners and staff during the winter season.  During that time, and the 5 years before that, when I wasn’t studying, I was home (practicing pairing) so I rarely went to public wine events.

This year, Winter Winelands in Northern Sonoma County caught my attention. It’s one of my favorite wine regions, and although 6,000 people attend annually, the event is spread out over 30 miles including Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley, Healdsburg, Dry Creek Valley and even some tasting rooms in Santa Rosa. The possible combinations of itineraries is almost endless.

I’ve decided to visit some old favorites in Dry Creek Valley. I’ll miss a few folks over in the Russian River (like John Tyler) but I’m sure I’ll be inspired to come back another weekend to say hello.  My friend Herlinda and I will be in my little roadster starting at Bella Wine Vineyards & Wine Caves. It’s beautiful inside the caves with tasting stations throughout, the perfect escape when it’s chilly outside and the vineyards are bare and boring.  Warmed up, we’ll be ready to hit the red carpet at Dry Creek Vineyard where there are always good deals and a variety of wines to taste. (I’ll be looking for a new vintage of their dessert wine Soleil.)

Then off to a rare public opening of a secret winery that is usually appointment only. Note: Not on the Winelands list but tastings are complimentary for Wine Road participants. Only open Saturday, not Sunday.  From there, a drive up to Michel Schlumberger to see friends, it’s always a great place for a party (inside scoop that they will have some fabulous deals, the more you buy, the more you save).  Might end our day here but I’d love to stop by Merriam Vineyards to taste through their outstanding wines. Merriam’s also serving braised pork and grits. Yum!

Make your itinerary at Winter Wineland, The Wine Road.

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I hosted a small pre-Thanksgiving dinner for six close friends.  Taking my own advice, my mission was to serve four different, easy-to-find, under $20 wines that play well with turkey, roasted vegetables, yams with apples, traditional stuffing, chorizo corn bread stuffing, and cranberry/bing cherry sauce.

2009 DeLoach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir  A strikingly nice balance of bold fruit and acidity, this wine has substance, and flavors that are distinct and memorable without overwhelming the food.  It’s popular with people who like a stylish Pinot Noir with medium to full body. ($19.99 Safeway)

2010 Cline Cellars Cashmere A long time favorite to share with others, Cashmere is a blend of Mourvédre, Syrah and Grenache.  It’s body is lighter than the DeLoach but the fruit is still quite distinct. It’s a fun, easy wine to introduce to people interested in discovery and the fact that Cline gives a percentage of sales of every bottle to breast cancer research is a bonus. ($15.99 Paradise Foods. Cline is widely distributed at grocery stores and wine shops.)

2009 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir The lightest of the red wines in the group, it is a well-made nice representative of California’s southern coast.  Light and fruity, it’s the perfect red alternative for white wine lovers. ($19.99 Safeway)

Rare White, Lot 297 Napa County White Table Wine.  Ok, this one is not easy to find, it’s made by a negociant who buys leftover grapes or already blended wines from quality producers, puts a new label on it and sells it for a much lower price.  I chose this one because the blend is lovely for Thanksgiving: Chardonnay (76.32), Semillion (5.26), Marsanne (7.89) & Viogner (10.53). One of my friends is a big fan of Chardonnay, and she loved this wine. If you can find it super, otherwise, look for other interesting whites. ($7.99 Paradise Foods)

Lastly, another friend brought our group a 2006 Kunde Sonoma Valley Zinfandel.  It was a wonderful choice because unlike many Zinfandels that pop in your mouth with unbalanced acidity and fruit, it was well-rounded with soft tannins and properly restrained fruit.  The back label reads, “…experts say it’s varietally correct.” I agree. (Around $16 and it heads the line up as the wine with the most body.)

Now, you’re ready to run to the store at the last minute! Happy Sipping!

 

 

 

 

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White Oak Vineyards & Winery

White Oak Winery

The pretty Alexander Valley tucked into Sonoma County’s northern corner is quite different from its famous neighbors, Dry Creek Valley (filled with Zinfandel pursuers) and Russian River Valley (teaming with Pinot Noir collectors). There is a hidden, quiet, unassuming quality to the area.  Perhaps this is because the main road is dotted with occasional signs and driveways and most of the wineries are hidden from view.  It’s also a monoculture grape-growing region, so a big part of the area’s appeal is being surrounded by rows and rows of vineyards.

It”s easy and pleasant to get around this unhurried and uncrowded area, yet it’s also an ideal place to enjoy open-air transportation.  Unless you have your own convertible, your choices are a horse-drawn Wine Carriage or a customized Land-Rover called the Vine Rover.

The Wine Carriage takes you through the vineyards and includes a barrel tasting & cave tour at Alexander Valley Vineyards, guided tours, premium tastings and a gourmet picnic and tasting at White Oak Vineyards & Winery, Hannah Winery, or Soda Rock Winery.

Vine Rover Tours offers customized tours, VIP tastings, friendly and knowledgeable guides.  And because I’m a guide with Vine Rover Tours, I’ll introduce you to some of my favorite wineries.

To book Vine Rover Tours, call Jay (707) 838-1405.  For the Wine Carriage call Bret at (707) 849-8989. Both are available year-round as weather permits.

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Where to Stay in Sonoma

Loxton Winery, Australian Wine maker, Sonoma, CA

Loxton Winery

If you’re looking for a California resort in the town of Sonoma, MacArthur Place is the only game in town. It has everything I want in a resort—-a pool, spa, boutique shopping (next to the Spa), complimentary wine & cheese pairings in the Library, a martini bar, on-site breakfast (in bed too), a variety of room choices (all fabulously decorated) and flower gardens with sculptures (e.g., eye candy).  It’s just a few blocks from the Sonoma Plaza on a residential, tree-lined street and very convenient for wine tasting in that area.

If you want privacy & a kitchen, I recommend renting a home.  I have a great recommendation in the Kenwood/Glen Ellen, a beautiful area with lovely wineries.

(Picture is of Loxton Cellars.)

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Cline Cellars

Cachet. When I visit this winery, I feel like I’ve come home. The drive onto the property is lined with rose bushes. The parking lot draws you towards a multitude of excellent choices…walk straight to one of three tasting rooms, head for a shady picnic table near one of several ponds, tour the one-of-kind museum of California Mission models or visit the exotic birds on display in the aviaries. All of these choices and yet the atmosphere feels like you have walked into someone’s private farm…albeit a very lovely one that makes fabulous wine.

Wine. Cline wines come in five groupings: Oakley (from the San Joaquin Delta area), California (blends from various vineyards), Sonoma County, Ancient Vines, and Single Vineyards. With all these choices, there is something for everyone! The Oakley group is often a best buy from Wine Enthusiast. The California series has interesting wines like Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah (blend) and Cline’s well-known California Zinfandel. Ancient vines are popular in California, people love to talk about them. Cline has four wines in this group: Mourvedre Rose, Carignane, Mourvedre and Zinfandel. The single vineyard wines are my favorite with the Small Berry Mourvedre leading the pack.

People. Everyone that I have encountered at this winery has a happy and relaxed demeanor…tasting room staff, winemakers, management and visitors. I use the tasting room reserved for club members…the cutest little room with two to three enthusiastic, smiling people behind the counter. I think the intimacy of this room lends a tremendous amount to the convivial atmosphere. But of course, it comes down to the people. They are genuinely enthusiastic and seem to love their jobs. Once at a large event, my husband and I were chatting with winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos and he got so excited by all of our questions, he spontaneously led us on a private barrel tasting.

Getting there. If you have one day to visit and you choose Sonoma County, I recommend you start or end your day at Cline. Marin County (where I live) is beautiful so if you are coming from San Francisco or points north, take advantage and drive through Marin. From Hwy 101, (the unfortunate asphalt divider of Marin) take Hwy 37 (a stunning Marsh area) to Hwy 121. Follow the signs to Sonoma and you’ll soon find yourself in rolling pastures surrounded by cows, goats and hawks. This is the Carneros AVA. Cline is one of the first wineries (on the left).

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Ravenswood Blending Seminar

I have always been in awe of winemakers.  Amateurs making their own blends is an industry trend, e.g., Crushpad in San Francisco is very successful. Until now, I’ve happily sat on the sidelines (drinking fab wine).

I finally poked my beaker into the bottle so-to-speak at a corporate event where I was VIP Hostess.  The client had already chosen the wineries so I used my insider persuasion to organize the various events, get discounts and keep everyone on schedule.  We started at Ravenswood with Peter Griffith’s Blending Seminar. The guests learned the basics about acidity, sugar and tannins.  I helped translate that into “taste the three wines in front of you, decide what you think about them, then start mixing and tasting until you come up with your favorite”.

The group had a blast. They used every last minute to pour, play and taste.  When the time was up, Peter quickly bottled, corked and even hot waxed each guest’s personal blend to take home.

**(That’s me in the hat.)

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Willie's Wine Bar, AJ GentryWillie’s Wine Bar & Grill in Santa Rosa is the ultimate place to pair delish small plates with wine.  Sitting at the bar one rainy afternoon, I invited Darren, the server behind the bar, to design a three course meal for me.

Course 1 was rich (French), course 2 was a palette cleanser (salad) and course 3 was rich (European).

Course 1 Foie Gras “Poppers” with Sea Salt & Grape Chutney served with a Grande Maison dessert wine. The earthy flavor of Foie Gras is strong and the wine calmed my palate.  I liked the salt in the recipe too.

Course 2 Arugula, radicchio salad with white truffle Meyer lemon vinaigrette, avocado, Manchego cheese and toasted almonds served with  a MacMurray Pinot Gris. A perfect pairing! The hint of fruit at the front was a surprise; it took the edge off the strong earthiness of the salad.  Also the simplicity of the Pinot Gris (acidic and minerally) created a wonderful balance of flavors.

Course 3 This was so good I didn’t even take notes!  It was a Filet Mignon slider with a Cabernet Sauvignon. I served a take-off of the dish at home, which I’ll blog about later.

I learned so much in one afternoon!

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Kunde Estates, Sonoma Valley

Courtesy of Kunde.com

Courtesy of Kunde.com

When a winery describes their wines as ultra-premium, I fear the prices will start at $55 a bottle.  Not so with Kunde (rhymes with bundy); this family estate is wallet-friendly, welcoming and makes suburb wines. They use ultra-premium to describe the intense care and attention to detail that characterizes their wine making.  Learn more by watching the video (located on page right).

They have a new seated tasting paired with cheese.  It’s called the Kinnybrook Room but it is actually in the tasting room which keeps it festive and comfortable.  I always say if you can taste food with wine…go for it…it’s worth the price of admission.

I bought several wines during my last visit (search on Kunde for my posts).  Their website has a lovely recipe feature; I’m going to try their chicken wings with the 2004 Syrah. I highly recommend this winery.  It’s beautiful inside and out, and all visitors will find something to enjoy.

One last tip from Tulip, Jeff Kunde leads Eco-Tours including Eco Tour Dog Hikes.  Now that’s something to yap about!

 

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