“I had been reminiscing about a small, hands-on entity where I could do it all myself again, like I did in the beginning.” Mitch Cosentino

Hands-on winemakers making small amounts of lovingly-crafted premium wine can be found all over the world.  Some stay small while others grow into big wineries while retaining a personal touch.  Mitch Cosentino has come full-circle. He started making his own wine in 1980 in Modesto; he then grew a 30,000+ case winery in Yountville/Oakville, bringing substantial attention to that part of Napa Valley at that time. Cosentino Winery is now owned by Vintage Wine Estates and Mitch is back to making small lots of “winemaker’s wine.”

I really like Mitch’s new PureCru wines.  They are well-priced, well-made and I have succumbed to the cool factor of his label.  I would bring this wine as a gift or to a party in a heartbeat.

PureCru wines are very approachable and food friendly with enough interest to hold the attention of connoisseurs.  The 2010 Giovanni Vineyards Pinot Noir ($32) is from Carneros.  I am pleased that it doesn’t have under-ripe green bell-pepper or cow-patty flavors that often plague Carneros wines. (I always say wine from Carneros is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you’re going to get. Nod to Forrest Gump.)  I highly recommend PureCru’s Pinot Noir and everyone knows I’m a (picky) Pinot lover.

I also recommend PureCoz Red Blend 2007 ($65).  Cosentino’s famous for his red blends and this one does not disappoint.  Aged 36 months in French Oak, PureCoz is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese. I can not say it better than what Mitch wrote on the label, designed for the fine cuisine of the world.  It’s a beautiful wine and a real conversation starter.

For white wine lovers, I recommend the 2009 Purety blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion ($25).  Intriguing and pleasant (with no malolactic fermentation).

Since they are made in such small qualities, this is the Wine Club you want to join. For a pittance compared to other Napa wine clubs, you get well-priced premium fruit made in small lots by a famous winemaker.

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Photo Courtesy of Bonterra

Bonterra loosely translates from Italian as good earth.  Bonterra Winery’s good earth seems to bring out the best in their grapes.  I can not remember a time when I was more pleasantly surprised by a group of wines.  Added bonus…they are $13.99 for whites and $15.99 for reds, have a lovely fresh label and are widely available in the states and overseas.

I first opened the 2009 Chardonnay and thought, wow, this is lovely.  I like to keep Chardonnay in my fridge for a week to enjoy a small glass with Hubby in the evening after work.  I’ve experienced other organic wines turn ugly quickly even though I always use a VacuVin, but the slight changes that occurred with Bonterra’s wine were not unpleasant in the least. I am very picky about Chardonnay and I really love this wine. It has all of the elements of a thoughtfully-made, restrained Chardonnay: 70% of the fruit went through malolactic fermentation in French and American oak. It was then blended with 30% fruit from stainless steel tanks and finished off in neutral oak. For me, that is a winning combination; the malo cuts out the bitter acidity that I find nasty in “naked” Chardonnays and grapes from the the stainless steel tanks keep the wine from being overwhelmed by oak flavors.

I was also thoroughly surprised by the delightful 2008 Merlot.  Blended with a bit of Syrah, Zinfandel, and Carignane, it’s a very special wine in that the grapes were subjected to a rare 50-year frost with a long growing season which resulted in (low-yield) concentrated fruits. Events like this showcase a winemaker’s ability and palate. Winemaker Robert Blue turned a potential disaster into a must-try Merlot.

The winemaker’s handling of Bonterra’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is just my style. It’s a food friendly, flexible Cabernet Sauvignon.  Folks who don’t want a tannic big red wine, this is your Cabernet Sauvignon. It has plenty of structure and flavor but I found that it pairs nicely with basic Mediterranean or Italian food. I would even recommend a high-quality pizza and salad with blue cheese. A non-stuffy Cabernet Sauvignon – nice!

Bottomline: The fact that the winemaker is making fabulous wines from organic farming is interesting to me as an oenophile and it’s fun to show others what organic wines can be, but you don’t have to be “into organic” wines to enjoy these refreshing, flavorful and delicious food friendly wines.  

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Mourvédre* and its cousins are a hot commodity in the USA right now.  Mourvédre is one of  22 grapes known as Rhone Varieties.  Fortunately you don’t have to go to France to taste these interesting wines.   American-made wines are featured at tastings sponsored by the Rhone Rangers each year.  The 2012 San Francisco Celebration of Rhone Wines featured 500 wines from 100 wineries mostly from California (lots of Paso Robles wineries).

The three most common white Rhone grapes grown in California are Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.  Marsanne and Roussanne are often blended together.  One of my favorite blends is Viognier with Chardonnay.  Popular Rhone reds are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvédre.

These grapes are naturally bold and flavorful. Like Petite Sirah, they are very distinct; for instance, if you taste rich honeysuckle nectar, it is most likely a Viognier.  Syrah is frequently paired with BBQ, rich sauces and meat while a lesser wine would be over-powered.  While an occasional full-bodied Syrah will find it’s way to my table, my favorite California Rhone wines are restrained the fruit ripeness is controlled and enough acidity is present to create a balanced wine that doesn’t leave my teeth purple or my tongue honey-coated.

Here are producers that I recommend:

Two Shepherds.  Winemaker William Allen is an on-the-move tech executive, a committed wine blogger, a marketing evangelist for Sonoma wine events and a darn good winemaker. His first bottling was in 2010 and he is quickly ramping up to deliver 2011 to meet demand. Tip: Get on his mailing list.

Inspiration Vineyards & Winery.  Jon Phillips’ wines are food friendly and terroir-driven. He makes a small amount of Chardonnay-Viognier (190 cases), bright, elegant Viogniers, a very French White Rhone Blend and several other varietals mostly from the Russian River/Dry Creek area. Tip: The tasting room is open Thursday – Monday, no appointment necessary and if it’s not during harvest, you’ll probably meet the winemaker.

Cline Cellars.  Drinking wine out of the barrel with Charlie Tsegeletos was a seminal moment in my wine loving journey. His enthusiasm for winemaking and wine education remains unbridled even after 30+ years. His 2010 Old Vine Mourvédre is a steal at $20 and his Mourvédre Rose is always a winner. Tip: Join the Pendulum Club, (the only club I belong to) the people are wonderful, the deals are great and the winery is a lovely home-away-from-home.

Hope Family Wines. Founder Austin Hope and winemaker Jason “JC” Diefenderfer make some great Rhone wines in Paso Robles. A larger winery with five very well-priced labels (Troublemaker, Treana, Liberty School, Candor and Austin Hope) has something for everyone. I especially like Troublemaker Blend 3, a red Rhone blend made from multiple vintages ($20).  Tip: Read more about Troublemaker online.

*It was about 10 years ago when I first heard the fun folks at Cline Cellars teaching people how to remember Mourvédre (here’s how to really pronounce it).

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I enjoy wine from all over the globe, but many German wines that I receive* are too sweet for my palate.  I’m always excited to get a Silvaner because the best ones are dry (the opposite of sweet) and pair perfectly with Springtime seafood and salads.  I served this 2009 Graf v (von) Schönborn with fresh white shrimp, cilantro, garden limes, chopped red onions and a little salt and pepper over broccoli/carrot slaw. The wine is light in body, low-alcohol (12%) with stone fruit and a bit of lime. Absolutely lovely and easy drinking.

When I visited Germany, I advocated to wineries that reaching more American wine lovers requires making their labels more user-friendly.  This producer gets it.  Here’s what the wine label would look like if the usual German “rules” were followed.

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Winter Winelands, Sonoma

As part of my wine education, a few years ago, I spent 2 1/2 years visiting wineries, year-round, four days a week.  I loved talking to wine makers, owners and staff during the winter season.  During that time, and the 5 years before that, when I wasn’t studying, I was home (practicing pairing) so I rarely went to public wine events.

This year, Winter Winelands in Northern Sonoma County caught my attention. It’s one of my favorite wine regions, and although 6,000 people attend annually, the event is spread out over 30 miles including Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley, Healdsburg, Dry Creek Valley and even some tasting rooms in Santa Rosa. The possible combinations of itineraries is almost endless.

I’ve decided to visit some old favorites in Dry Creek Valley. I’ll miss a few folks over in the Russian River (like John Tyler) but I’m sure I’ll be inspired to come back another weekend to say hello.  My friend Herlinda and I will be in my little roadster starting at Bella Wine Vineyards & Wine Caves. It’s beautiful inside the caves with tasting stations throughout, the perfect escape when it’s chilly outside and the vineyards are bare and boring.  Warmed up, we’ll be ready to hit the red carpet at Dry Creek Vineyard where there are always good deals and a variety of wines to taste. (I’ll be looking for a new vintage of their dessert wine Soleil.)

Then off to a rare public opening of a secret winery that is usually appointment only. Note: Not on the Winelands list but tastings are complimentary for Wine Road participants. Only open Saturday, not Sunday.  From there, a drive up to Michel Schlumberger to see friends, it’s always a great place for a party (inside scoop that they will have some fabulous deals, the more you buy, the more you save).  Might end our day here but I’d love to stop by Merriam Vineyards to taste through their outstanding wines. Merriam’s also serving braised pork and grits. Yum!

Make your itinerary at Winter Wineland, The Wine Road.

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I hosted a small pre-Thanksgiving dinner for six close friends.  Taking my own advice, my mission was to serve four different, easy-to-find, under $20 wines that play well with turkey, roasted vegetables, yams with apples, traditional stuffing, chorizo corn bread stuffing, and cranberry/bing cherry sauce.

2009 DeLoach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir  A strikingly nice balance of bold fruit and acidity, this wine has substance, and flavors that are distinct and memorable without overwhelming the food.  It’s popular with people who like a stylish Pinot Noir with medium to full body. ($19.99 Safeway)

2010 Cline Cellars Cashmere A long time favorite to share with others, Cashmere is a blend of Mourvédre, Syrah and Grenache.  It’s body is lighter than the DeLoach but the fruit is still quite distinct. It’s a fun, easy wine to introduce to people interested in discovery and the fact that Cline gives a percentage of sales of every bottle to breast cancer research is a bonus. ($15.99 Paradise Foods. Cline is widely distributed at grocery stores and wine shops.)

2009 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir The lightest of the red wines in the group, it is a well-made nice representative of California’s southern coast.  Light and fruity, it’s the perfect red alternative for white wine lovers. ($19.99 Safeway)

Rare White, Lot 297 Napa County White Table Wine.  Ok, this one is not easy to find, it’s made by a negociant who buys leftover grapes or already blended wines from quality producers, puts a new label on it and sells it for a much lower price.  I chose this one because the blend is lovely for Thanksgiving: Chardonnay (76.32), Semillion (5.26), Marsanne (7.89) & Viogner (10.53). One of my friends is a big fan of Chardonnay, and she loved this wine. If you can find it super, otherwise, look for other interesting whites. ($7.99 Paradise Foods)

Lastly, another friend brought our group a 2006 Kunde Sonoma Valley Zinfandel.  It was a wonderful choice because unlike many Zinfandels that pop in your mouth with unbalanced acidity and fruit, it was well-rounded with soft tannins and properly restrained fruit.  The back label reads, “…experts say it’s varietally correct.” I agree. (Around $16 and it heads the line up as the wine with the most body.)

Now, you’re ready to run to the store at the last minute! Happy Sipping!

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It’s important to stock up on white wine at the holidays.  Even though I advise sharing your favorites, this is one area where it’s also an opportunity to be a gracious host, prepared for guests that “don’t drink red” or drink only Chardonnay. And please don’t serve 2 Buck Chuck; you may like it but there are plenty of other inexpensive wines that say “I care” while not breaking your piggy bank.

Here’s a few of my favorite interesting white wines that I’ll share with my guests this holiday season.

2009 Glen Carlou Chardonnay Paarl South Africa Another Donald Hess gem, this Chardonnay is nicely balanced, not too acidic or tart and not too oaky. It goes with food and is also very enjoyable on it’s own. Just a beautiful example of what the Chardonnay grape can be. Since it’s from South Africa with only about 10,000 cases imported to the USA, it might be a new and pleasant discovery for your guests. (Tip: Usually $16, now on sale at wine.com)

2009 Haute Cabriere Franschhoek Chardonnay Pinot Noir South Africa 2009 was a great vintage for South African Chardonnay which may have something to do with this wine’s exceptionalness. It’s the only 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir blend that I’ve ever tasted so I can’t say if others are as wonderful or not. The Haute Cabriere is flavorful and balanced with a long finish. With low alcohol (12.5%), it’s food friendly or great on it’s own. (Tip: Use wine-searcher.com to find where to buy it.

2008 Leyda Chardonnay, Lot 5, Chile.  Just a little reminder that Chile makes some fine Chardonnay, this one is hard to find unfortunately.  The link above goes to my review earlier this year in Alana’s Wine Picks. (Tip: Look here for other ideas too.)

2006 Laurenz V Charming Gruner Veltliner, Austria  It’s minerally, rich and has a hint of well-balanced light pepper spice. I highly recommend trying it and sharing it, especially if you’re tired of the same old whites. (Tip: This is not a budget wine at $30 but it is comparable to buying a Napa Chardonnay and it has the fun factor of trying something new. The 2009 is the current vintage. For more information about where to find this wine, contact the good folks at Folio Wine.)

More holiday picks Red  & Sparkling.

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Leyda Lot 5 Chardonnay 2009 Leyda Valley, Chile

• Wine Name: Leyda Lot 5 Chardonnay 2009
• Varietal: Chardonnay
• Designation: Block Nº 5, the coolest parcel of their vineyards located in the recently discovered Leyda Valley, 12 km from the Pacific Ocean.
• Appellation: Leyda Valley, Chile, South America
• Alcohol: 14.3%
• Website
• Awards: Descorchar Magazine 2011, 90 pts.
• It sells for around $20. Unfortunately, this wine is hard to get (only 500 cases) but you can contact the importer.

In my opinion~ This is a fascinating area of South America in general and Chile specifically. It’s cool from the Humboldt current (wind coming from the ocean up the hills), and there’s a lot of experimentation going on. Many people only know the hot regions that support Chile’s famous Carmenere.

Alana’s Tip: Find where to buy any of Leyda’s Chardonnay or Pinot Noir in your area or online. Prices vary from $12 – $30. You may or may not like it but it’s a pretty small outlay for potentially finding a favorite Chardonnay.

Pairing: This is a complex wine.  It’s crisp with nice acidity but has a touch of vanilla on the end. I would try it with scallops, toasted nuts and white wine sauce, and a salad with pear vinaigrette dressing.

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I love parties but I’m a picky party-goer and giver. My best parties have the right mix of people so no one feels overlooked; flows casually from cocktails to food to fun and conversation; and  has the ideal ending– guests enthusiastically reminiscing on the way home.

Here’s some tips for a perfect party~

Prep & Planning

• I commit 10 hours to plan & prep over a week or so; moving in fast little spurts–no last-minute marathon housecleaning and cooking.
• To save money & trips to the store I assess what I already have in my cupboards.  Since I already have a full bar, my NYE 2010 theme became “full bar” & all I needed to buy were some juices, limes & lemons.
• I re-org the house for party flow 2 days before. (We eat in the den because the dining room has my serving platters laid out waiting for my final menu.)
• Food shopping is done over 3 days–Day 1 I get the majority of what I need. Day 2 is speciality stores and Day 3 (party day) is last minute ideas.
• Always pick up extra easy-prep food.  I was glad I had Taste of Alsace flat bread from Trader Joe’s on hand.

Cocktails, Food & Wine

• When people arrived, I brought them to the cocktail table. With a shaker, lots of beautiful bottles & plenty of accoutrements, the festive fun begins immediately.
• During cocktail hour, I walked around & shared an interesting appetizer.  This year I made some beautiful little radishes, with a dab of butter and sea salt.  I delighted in people being unfamiliar with it and I tied it into my 2010 trip to Paris.
• After whetting their appetite, guests mingled their way from the fireplace to the buffet table for appetizers allowing me  to disappear into the kitchen to bake the piece de resistance–lamb & goat cheese phyllo.
• After food round 1 and cocktails round 2, every one’s back in the living room when I present the lamb dish for approval.
• When food round 2 begins, I begin pouring wine.
• Everyone knows I love pairing, teaching & sharing the thrill of discovery.  This year I had plenty of red & whites on hand, but I only opened the whites: 3 Rieslings & 2 Viogners, all low in alcohol and food friendly.
• Most of my immediate friends & neighbors are not in the wine biz & eager to taste whatever I’m pouring.
• I brought tastes to various people in the living room, playing a casual game of “what do you think”? It created lots of lively conversation with people pouring, tasting and sharing.  Bridlewood Estate Reserve Viogner (Central Coast 2008) was a hit and emptied first.

Evening Endings

• We took a few group snapshots in front of the Christmas tree.
• Hostess gifts were used for the entry display so it was easy to give everyone pretty boxes of cookies as they departed.
• Clean up was a breeze…I filled the dishwasher with glasses & silverware & left the platters etc on the serving table. I used white Chinet paper plates & white hostess napkins which kept counter space clear during the party.
• Prepped the morning coffee & slept like a baby!

Last tip , this year I held the party on December 30th, the idea of partying without the pressure was very popular.

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Easy, quick and healthy.

Clam Linguine

• Linguine pasta for 2 people
• 1 can Snow’s Minced Clams
• 2 tbs quality olive oil
• 3 tbs white onion (chopped)
• 1/2 cup sliced brown mushrooms
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 cup Sauvignon Blanc
• 1 tbs fresh squeezed lemon juice
• 2 tsp tarragon
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley (chopped)
• shake of red pepper flakes
• salt and pepper

Prepare the linguine in boiling, well-salted water until al dente.

Open the clams and discard the liquid.  Heat oil on medium high in a non-stick pan. Saute onion and mushrooms. When mushrooms are sweating (well-cooked), reduce heat to medium.  Add garlic, 1/2 of the wine, lemon juice and tarragon. When wine is almost gone, the mushrooms and onions will be infused with flavor. Add clams, rest of wine, and parsley. Stir in red pepper flakes and salt and pepper to taste.  Add drained pasta to the pan, mix well and serve hot.

You can use fresh clams but the idea for this recipe is quick and easy–thus using canned.  I also purposefully omit clam juice unlike most recipes because I think it’s better just to use wine.  The clams are not the star in this version, all the flavors melted together makes this dish special. Btw, Snow’s didn’t sponsor this post, it just happens to be my favorite brand.

Pairing

It doesn’t have to be a Sauvignon Blanc: any unoaked or lightly French-oaked white wine with a hint of lemon will work.  If the wine has a lot of lemon or citrus, it overwhelms the dish.  The earthiness is more important (parsley, mushrooms, red pepper flakes). A well-balanced light-bodied earthy red is another option.

Serve with petite whole grain rolls and a Caesar salad.

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