Photo Courtesy of Bonterra

Bonterra loosely translates from Italian as good earth.  Bonterra Winery’s good earth seems to bring out the best in their grapes.  I can not remember a time when I was more pleasantly surprised by a group of wines.  Added bonus…they are $13.99 for whites and $15.99 for reds, have a lovely fresh label and are widely available in the states and overseas.

I first opened the 2009 Chardonnay and thought, wow, this is lovely.  I like to keep Chardonnay in my fridge for a week to enjoy a small glass with Hubby in the evening after work.  I’ve experienced other organic wines turn ugly quickly even though I always use a VacuVin, but the slight changes that occurred with Bonterra’s wine were not unpleasant in the least. I am very picky about Chardonnay and I really love this wine. It has all of the elements of a thoughtfully-made, restrained Chardonnay: 70% of the fruit went through malolactic fermentation in French and American oak. It was then blended with 30% fruit from stainless steel tanks and finished off in neutral oak. For me, that is a winning combination; the malo cuts out the bitter acidity that I find nasty in “naked” Chardonnays and grapes from the the stainless steel tanks keep the wine from being overwhelmed by oak flavors.

I was also thoroughly surprised by the delightful 2008 Merlot.  Blended with a bit of Syrah, Zinfandel, and Carignane, it’s a very special wine in that the grapes were subjected to a rare 50-year frost with a long growing season which resulted in (low-yield) concentrated fruits. Events like this showcase a winemaker’s ability and palate. Winemaker Robert Blue turned a potential disaster into a must-try Merlot.

The winemaker’s handling of Bonterra’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is just my style. It’s a food friendly, flexible Cabernet Sauvignon.  Folks who don’t want a tannic big red wine, this is your Cabernet Sauvignon. It has plenty of structure and flavor but I found that it pairs nicely with basic Mediterranean or Italian food. I would even recommend a high-quality pizza and salad with blue cheese. A non-stuffy Cabernet Sauvignon – nice!

Bottomline: The fact that the winemaker is making fabulous wines from organic farming is interesting to me as an oenophile and it’s fun to show others what organic wines can be, but you don’t have to be “into organic” wines to enjoy these refreshing, flavorful and delicious food friendly wines.  

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I enjoy wine from all over the globe, but many German wines that I receive* are too sweet for my palate.  I’m always excited to get a Silvaner because the best ones are dry (the opposite of sweet) and pair perfectly with Springtime seafood and salads.  I served this 2009 Graf v (von) Schönborn with fresh white shrimp, cilantro, garden limes, chopped red onions and a little salt and pepper over broccoli/carrot slaw. The wine is light in body, low-alcohol (12%) with stone fruit and a bit of lime. Absolutely lovely and easy drinking.

When I visited Germany, I advocated to wineries that reaching more American wine lovers requires making their labels more user-friendly.  This producer gets it.  Here’s what the wine label would look like if the usual German “rules” were followed.

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I hosted a small pre-Thanksgiving dinner for six close friends.  Taking my own advice, my mission was to serve four different, easy-to-find, under $20 wines that play well with turkey, roasted vegetables, yams with apples, traditional stuffing, chorizo corn bread stuffing, and cranberry/bing cherry sauce.

2009 DeLoach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir  A strikingly nice balance of bold fruit and acidity, this wine has substance, and flavors that are distinct and memorable without overwhelming the food.  It’s popular with people who like a stylish Pinot Noir with medium to full body. ($19.99 Safeway)

2010 Cline Cellars Cashmere A long time favorite to share with others, Cashmere is a blend of Mourvédre, Syrah and Grenache.  It’s body is lighter than the DeLoach but the fruit is still quite distinct. It’s a fun, easy wine to introduce to people interested in discovery and the fact that Cline gives a percentage of sales of every bottle to breast cancer research is a bonus. ($15.99 Paradise Foods. Cline is widely distributed at grocery stores and wine shops.)

2009 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir The lightest of the red wines in the group, it is a well-made nice representative of California’s southern coast.  Light and fruity, it’s the perfect red alternative for white wine lovers. ($19.99 Safeway)

Rare White, Lot 297 Napa County White Table Wine.  Ok, this one is not easy to find, it’s made by a negociant who buys leftover grapes or already blended wines from quality producers, puts a new label on it and sells it for a much lower price.  I chose this one because the blend is lovely for Thanksgiving: Chardonnay (76.32), Semillion (5.26), Marsanne (7.89) & Viogner (10.53). One of my friends is a big fan of Chardonnay, and she loved this wine. If you can find it super, otherwise, look for other interesting whites. ($7.99 Paradise Foods)

Lastly, another friend brought our group a 2006 Kunde Sonoma Valley Zinfandel.  It was a wonderful choice because unlike many Zinfandels that pop in your mouth with unbalanced acidity and fruit, it was well-rounded with soft tannins and properly restrained fruit.  The back label reads, “…experts say it’s varietally correct.” I agree. (Around $16 and it heads the line up as the wine with the most body.)

Now, you’re ready to run to the store at the last minute! Happy Sipping!

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While I love pairing wine with food, the holiday season can easily become a nightmare; Thanksgiving feasts are full of conflicting flavors and Christmas dinner is often a showcase event that demands extra special wine.  Add appetizer and dessert pairings and the stress has me reaching for the vodka.

To avoid that, I worry less about pairing and more about sharing. The holidays are more fun when I share my latest discoveries and encourage people to do the same.

Tip: Buy a few mixed cases of your favorite white, red, bubbles, and pre- and post dinner wines so you have them around for the entire holiday season. Or try something new from this list–you’re off the hook just tell your friends, they’re recommendations from Girl with a Glass!

Here are my recommendations:

Sparkling.  I like to share something new every year.  This year’s list.

Red. Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon & Red Blends are my choices.

Dessert Wines. (Stay tuned, coming soon!)

Happy Holidays!  

PS: Everyone on my mailing list will be receiving a holiday gift this year, so if you aren’t already signed up, do it soon!

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Pinot Noir.  Always a favorite with food, you’ll probably want to serve at least one with your Thanksgiving meal.  I’m currently having a love affair with Pinot from California’s Sonoma Coast, I recommend anything by winemaker Jim McPhail, who has incidentally (and deservedly) won just about every award ever given. (Tip: The MacPhails are offering 15% off 6 bottles (new releases) on their website for a limited time. Another idea, go to your local wine shop & get representatives from Oregon, Russian River, Sonoma Coast, Carneros and have a taste off.) 

2008 Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain, Washington State  This is one of those “who the heck cares what’s in it, it’s fantastic” wines.  If you want to understand what it means to balance acid, tannins and fruit flavors for a terrifically enjoyable experience, try this wine. You can drink it with food or by itself.  I was pleasantly surprised that it was priced at $25, I expected a much higher price tag. (Tip: It’s primarily a Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend and party-friendly at 13.5% alcohol.)

2008 (or ’09) Tikal Patriota, Argentina. This is my favorite bring-to-a-party or gift wine.  It has bold Napa-like fruit with the balance and acidity of France. All fantastic. (60% Bonarda 40% Malbec)  Color is clear and deep dark purple. Very exciting wine. Just gorgeous, balanced. Dry, melted tannins, refreshing acidity, full-bodied & extended finish. All the pieces are harmonious. Made by Ernesto Catena, one of my top 10 winemakers to follow.(Tip: If you’re serving lamb at any of your holiday parties, this a great wine pairing. Fairly easy to find online.) 

2008 Grand Classique Glen Carlou, Paarl South Africa  This is Donald Hess’ South Africa project; if you like the Hess Collection, you’ll enjoy this classic Bordeaux “signature” wine. It’s enjoyable at first sip, no need to decant but at the same time has plenty of flavor. (Tip: Use wine-searcher.com to find a retailer near you or the Hess Collection online, it retails for around $20.)

2009 BenMarco Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza Argentina  The body is perfect, has weight but not too much. With 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc it reminds me of a sunny day at 3,000′ in Argentina. It has a hint of Christmas spice and lush fruit, I like this wine very much. (Tip: Winemaker Susana Balbo makes several labels; she’s a real talent. The price for this fabulous cab is an affordable $2o.)

More holiday picks White Wine  & Sparkling.

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It’s my tradition to open a bottle of sparkling wine for the cooks at family events.  I am picky about my bubbly so when I find sparkling wine that is dry yet zesty and flavorful with tiny bubbles, I’m a happy girl.

The ultimate is No 21 from Jean Charles Boisset. This is a winery label to get to know and follow like a cult. I spent a few hours with JC and he leaves an indelible impression; even better, his wines rock. Everything you need to know about his wines and why they are radiant (a word he loves to use) can be gleaned by watching the über-enthusiasm in his video. Serve this wine and the story behind it for a real conversation starter. (Tip: JCB wines can be tasted in Healdsburg or in his private lounge in Napa. This sparkler is only $20. Buy his wines online.)

Dry sparkling rosé of Pinot Noir is a must have for the holidays.  2008 Schramsburg Brut Rosé  Schramsberg makes hand crafted, fine wines. This one is made from Sonoma and Marin Coastal Pinot Noir, and juiced up with warmer Carneros and Alexander Valley Pinot. (Tip: At $41 it’s worth it in my opinion and it’s still less expensive than the 2004 J Shram that I opened last New Year’s.  Here’s an article I wrote about Schramsberg.)

For Gloria Ferrer’s many fans, there’s a new limited edition wine,  Gloria Ferrer 2005 Anniversary Cuvée.  I attended a 2 day media tour and tasting recently and was struck by the lovely presentation of this wine. It was harvested in their 25th year (2005) and released 40 months later. (Tip: It’s only available in the tasting room (good excuse to visit) or online.)

For easy drinking, Chandon Brut Classic.  There are plenty of “grocery store” sparklers and everyone has their favorite.  For me, the Chandon Brut Classic doesn’t disappoint.  It’s under $25.  (Tip: If you want to try something new, Chandon has many other styles and flavors or you can use their recipes to make sparkling cocktails.)

More holiday picks White Wine  & Red.

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Silkbush.com, South Africa Winery

My good friend and neighbor, Dave Jefferson, is a long time wine industry veteran.  We’ve enjoyed many discussions about the wine business, locally and globally.  At one of our first get-togethers, he outlined several daunting issues that South African wineries face.  He also described best practices in South Africa’s wine industry, one of which is an across-the-board commitment to the people who live and work on the “wine farms.”

A paper was released recently that gave the impression that people should not support South African wine because of worker abuses. I am concerned that people will wrongly stop drinking South African wines (or other wines globally) based on false impressions made by this paper.

My message is simple: freely and without hesitation, enjoy wines from South Africa, you will be helping people there, not hurting them.

If you are interested in the topic, here is what Dave has to say about the real situation in South African wineries. Dave’s text was originally published on Vinography.com as a comment.

My NorCal based company and our managed affiliates have been growing wine grapes on 700 acres in Napa and Sonoma for 38 years, and on 215 acres in the Western Cape of South Africa for the past 11. Accordingly, we are very aware of living conditions for farm workers in both areas. Since the subject today is South Africa, I’ll confine the discussion to our vineyard in Breedekloof and my personal experience visiting hundreds of “wine farms.” After adding 3 additional living units in 2006, we now have 10 worker families living with us; 9 couples who are active workers and a retired couple. Including 6 children, we are housing 26 souls in above average living conditions. While the housing did not have electricity when we acquired the farm, we soon obtained service from the local utility, paying for poles and transformers, and provide it for free to our people. Besides lights, some of the people use electric heaters in their cottages and some heat with wood stoves; there is plenty of firewood on the property, too. The water on the farm is abundant, clean, sparkling, and running. Three additional men live off the vineyard in homes on adjacent vineyards and in a nearby town; therefore, we have 21 total very adequately housed workers.

Since we have a very stable workforce, it was not difficult to carefully train them to use safety precautions when using harsh chemicals (which we also minimize). All these workers are salaried 12 months per year, receive three weeks of paid vacation, numerous government mandated holidays, and free health care. They work 45 hours per week and receive a new set of work clothes every six months. (We used to employ more off farm workers but the acquisition of a used grape harvester machine four years ago has reduced our harvest worker needs substantially; however, the steeper slopes are still picked by hand by our own people.) We have also built a small day care center for the children to use until the are ready to attend elementary school. About six years ago there was an attempt to unionize the local farm workers; a number of our workers signed up, paid initiation fees funded by bank loan, and then the head organizer ran off with all the union funds, and left the workers stuck with their unpaid loans. Almost needless to say, there have been no further attempts at unionization.

Over 17 years, I have made 27 trips to the Cape and spent well over a year in total time on countless vineyards there, including at least 100 owned by other farmers and winery owners that we know well. Based on my first hand industry experience, for any organization to assert “rampant violations of South Africa’s own labor and health laws, including inadequate safety precautions to avoid worker exposure to toxic chemicals, poor or no access to drinking water or toilets for workers, harsh treatment at the hands of employers, poor living conditions for many who reside on the farms where they work in the vineyards, and systematic attempts to prevent any sort of collective action or negotiation on the part of the workers” is irresponsible and simply not true or fair. Certainly there must be a few bad apples among some 3,700 employing farmers, but I have yet to see them. I would be surprised if 1% of growers were significant moral and legal violators, and there are well enforced laws to constantly clean up bad actors. Most farm workers are also well aware of their rights to decent conditions and collectively will not hesitate to report abuses.

Dave’s winery is Silkbush.  Support Silkbush & other South African wineries’ efforts by enjoying their fabulous wine.

Best online source for South African wines Cape-Ardor.

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Nieto Senetiner Vertical Tasting: 8 Vintages / 10 Writers

In April 2011, I was one of ten people invited to Argentina’s very first vertical tasting of aged Bonarda.*  It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and writing about it makes me giddy all over again.  Even though being the first and getting the scoop so-to-speak that aged Bonarda is excellent, the story that I want to share goes much deeper.

There is no ambivalence about the chosen market position among top Argentina producers: they intend to deliver world-class wines.  They are dedicated to competing against the best of any country and region.  The wine is strictly Argentinean with Argentinean soil, sunlight, history, wine making practices and taste profiles.  Since 1991, when Argentina began allowing imports and exports, certain winemakers set their sights on the international marketplace.  They invested in quality people, facilities and began scientific experiments to root out the best combination of soil, rootstock, growing conditions, wine making and delivery to market systems.  Twenty years seems to be the magic number for these producers for the fruit of their labors has paid off.

One of these top producers, Nieto Senetiner, while delivering many exceptional wines (more posts coming), is a premiere producer of Bonarda.  Vitaculture practices are precise…high altitude (3,100′), cool climate, drop fruit for low-yields and no cover crop to let the sun reflect back onto the grapes.  Then, the real news, they age the wine.

The Nieto Senetiner Bonarda vertical tasting included wines from 2000, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008.  My favorites? 2000, 2002 and 2003; this was the line where the wine had moved into a super-luscious category.  The hue and nose were beautiful and flawless.  2004 was distinct but similar to the 2003 and the 2005 held delightful promise.  In my opinion, the 2006, 2007 and 2008 need to lay down.  After the tasting, I took the 2000 and the 2002 to my table to taste with lunch.  Unfortunately, the 2000 died right there at the table (confirmed by my friend, preeminent wine educator, Karen MacNeil).  This is part of the whole aging experiment that I find so fascinating.  Jeff Mausbach, an American ex-pat and Argentina specialist said that he felt the 2004 and 2005 show strength not shown in the original 2000, so we still don’t know if 10 years is the limit for Bonarda. Parenthetically, after lunch the 2002 was still drinking well.

Current vintages are available for under $30  (750 ml).   You don’t have to be a collector to enjoy this experiment but you should have a wine refrigerator.  Depending on how much room you have, buy 6+ bottles, open one in the near future to see what it tastes like, then open them periodically over a decade.  You can do this with fewer bottles but you take the risk of a bad bottle, so it’s always a good idea to hold back 2 bottles for each year that you want to try an aged wine.  Continue to buy a new vintage every year and soon you’ll have a rare and large collection of aged Bonarda. Look for older vintages at Winesearcher.com.  To find a store near you that carries Nieto Senetiner wines, search at Winebow.

Note to trade, somms & journalists: The folks at Nieto Senetiner are considering taking this tasting on the road, so stay tuned.

* Bonarda wines can be lighter-bodied and fruity, full of cherry and plum flavours, with light tannins and moderate acidity. However with concentrated fruit from older vines, and especially when oak aged, Bonardas can also be big, fruity, dense and tannic wines with deep colour and fig and raisin characteristics. In most Argentine vineyards, Bonarda is one of the last grapes to be harvested. (Argentina Wine Guide)

Winemaker Notes & Awards

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After years of concentrating on California wines, I’m wholeheartedly drinking and learning about wines from emerging markets.  My wine refrigerator is now stocked with Chilean Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Austrian Grüner Veltliner, Greek Assyrtiko, South African Pinotage and Argentine Malbec.

The style and flavor of these international wines are fascinating.  Here’s some tips and recommendations for your own international exploration pleasure:

• I’ve found that food really brings out the light style of the Austrian and Greek white wines. Look for the Assyrtiko grape from Santorini and Grüner Veltliner from Austria.  There are many enjoyable wines for under $20.
• Don’t let unfamiliar grapes fool you into thinking they are going to taste unfamiliar.  You’ll probably associate a foreign grape with something you already love. For instance, the Charming 2007 Grüner Veltliner reminds me of a rockin’ Sauvignon Blanc.
• South Africa has fascinated me as I’ve watched so much dramatic change in the last 20 years. The signature grape is Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Good Pinotage has the earthiness that I love in a good Pinot Noir. I highly recommend Silkbush’s Lion’s Drift 2009 Pinotage that will be available in Summer 2011. I received a pre-release sample and it rocked my world. (Review to come soon.)
• I suspect consumers have no idea how fantastic Pinot Noir from Chile’s Leyda Valley can be. My favorite so far is Leyda Las Brisas 2009 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir.  Stylistically it reminds me of Oregon Pinots, ripe black cherries, dark with a honey texture. (Look for my post soon about a perfect pairing.)
• It’s pretty much an open secret that I’m in love with Argentina. There are so many great values and excellent wines, enjoy Malbec but also look for red blends, Torrontes, Bonarda (a very special post coming soon about aged Bonarda), sparkling Malbec and Chardonnay. In other words, explore the world of Argentine wines. (Links go to some of my favorites.)

In case you are wondering, I’m not really leaving California in the physical sense, but if you stop by my house, we can transport ourselves to almost anywhere in the world with some fine wine and matching food.

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I’ve traveled the world experiencing insider tours of wineries and enjoying the most amazing luscious wine and food extravaganzas.  I’ve sipped with superstar wine makers, had my picture taken with celebrity winery owners and gawked at one-of-kind car and crystal collections.  I love all of it of course, but one thing I’ve learned is when it is all stripped away, winemakers and winery owners want you to love their wine.  It doesn’t matter if it is $150 a bottle, $3,000 a magnum or $200 a case, creating great wine is about capturing magic in a bottle.

I recently experienced magic in a bottle and called the winemaker to find out more.  I was pleasantly surprised to learn that this luscious, perfect wine was made by two brothers whose souls have been intertwined with grapevines their entire lives.  Bulmaro and Manuel Jr. Montes, owners of Marita’s Vineyard were born with the magic in their hands.

Their father, Manuel, starting working for Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 1973 and didn’t stop until he was 90 years old. His son, Bulmaro, worked for Joseph Phelps Vineyards for over 30 years.  Seasoned vineyard managers are considered to be rock stars in the wine world.  And both Manuel Sr. (deceased) and Bulmaro are highly respected in Napa Valley. Manuel Jr., a mechanical engineer and rather famous water witcher (douser) also worked for Phelps.

The fabulous wine that I tasted came from a special bit of microclimate in the Coombsville area of Napa.  Bulmaro told me that he knew exactly what he was looking for when he bought his 2.6 acre bare parcel in 2002­­­­­.  After all, he had access to every vineyard in California when he purchased grapes for JPV.  And after traveling many times to France, he knew that it was possible to make great wine from a tiny vineyard. He called it Marita’s Vineyard after his youngest daughter.

It generally takes 3-4 years for a new vineyard to mature enough to make good wine; as well, the vineyard’s readiness is especially important to winemakers who believe strongly that great wine is made in the vineyard not in the laboratory.  Bulmaro and Manuel’s magical hands are the only ones to touch the vines; they plant, prune and nurture every vine themselves.  Consulting winemaker, Kurt Niznik, is also part of the winemaking family.

Marita’s Vineyard’s first harvest was in 2004 and although Bulmaro bottled it at the insistence of his excited daughters, he never released it.  He and his brother worked their magic with the vineyard for another year, and in 2008, they released the 2005 Marita’s Select Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. It is sold out except for a few bottles available for library tasting. (Parenthetically, Wine Enthusiast rated it 95 points, pretty amazing for a first release.)

I love touring a gorgeous castle and savoring a meal prepared by a Michelin-star chef but sometimes, when the fanciness of Napa is stripped away, it’s the best experience of all. The Montes family Ranchito is nothing fancy, it’s not a faux chateau nor surrounded by exotic gardens, imported statues and sybaritic fountains.  Unpretentious and welcoming, guests can taste the Marita’s Cabernet Sauvignon with homemade Spanish-influenced food. And it is smack in the middle of the vineyard.

Tasting Notes: 2006 Marita’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

A rare wine that will please experienced and inexperienced palates alike.  It’s complex and interesting, tempting a second sip, and a third until the oenophile is finally satisfied that it is as wonderful as they suspected, and then they just sit back and enjoy the lingering finish and soft yet structured tannins. The non-oenophiles are there after the first taste, giggling and smiling and saying, wow, this is different, it’s accessible…I get it.

$150 Available exclusively from Maritasvineyard.com or at the tasting room.

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